Cobblestone lanes, dreamy canals, soaring spires and whitewashed almshouses combine to make central Bruges (Brugge in Dutch) one of Europe's most picture-perfect historic cities. The only problem is that everyone knows of these charms, and the place gets mobbed.
The real joy of Bruges is simply wandering alongside the canals, soaking up the atmosphere. To avoid the worst crowds, explore east of pretty Jan van Eyckplein.
MarktSQUARE
The heart of ancient Bruges, the old market square is lined with pavement cafes beneath step-gabled facades. The buildings aren't always quite as medieval as they look, but together they create a fabulous scene and even the neo-Gothic post office is architecturally magnificent. The scene is dominated by the Belfort, Belgium's most famous belfry whose iconic octagonal tower is arguably better appreciated from afar than by climbing 366 claustrophobic steps to the top.
HistoriumMUSEUM
An 'immersive' one-hour audio and video tour, the lavish Historium aims to take you back to medieval Bruges: you can survey the old port or watch Van Eyck paint. It's a little light on facts so for many it will be a diversion from the real sights of the city, perhaps best for entertaining kids on a rainy day.
BurgSQUARE
Bruges' 1420 Stadhuis is smothered in statuettes and contains a breathtaking Gotische Zaal, featuring dazzling polychromatic ceilings, hanging vaults and historicist murals. Tickets include entry to part of the early baroque Brugse Vrije next door. With its gilt highlights and golden statuettes, this palace was once the administrative centre for a large autonomous territory ruled from Bruges between 1121 and 1794.
GroeningemuseumGALLERY
Bruges’ most celebrated art gallery, an astonishingly rich collection whose strengths are in superb Flemish Primitive and Renaissance works, depicting the conspicuous wealth of the city with glitteringly realistic artistry. In room 2 are meditative works including Jan Van Eyck’s 1436 radiant masterpiece Madonna with Canon George Van der Paele (1436) and the Madonna by the Master of the Embroidered Foliage, where the rich fabric of the Madonna’s robe meets the ‘real’ foliage at her feet with exquisite detail.
Museum St-JanshospitaalMUSEUM
(Memlingmuseum)
In the restored chapel of a 12th-century hospital building with superb timber beamwork, this museum shows various torturous-looking medical implements, hospital sedan chairs and a gruesome 1679 painting of an anatomy class. But it is much better known for six masterpieces by 15th-century artist Hans Memling, including the enchanting reliquary of St Ursula. This gilded oak reliquary looks like a mini Gothic cathedral, painted with scenes from the life of St Ursula, including highly realistic Cologne cityscapes.
Brouwerij De Halve MaanBREWERY
Founded in 1856, this is the last family brouwerij (brewhouse) in central Bruges. Multilingual guided visits (tours €8; h11am-4pm, to 5pm Sat), lasting 45 minutes, depart on each hour. They include a tasting but can sometimes be rather crowded. Alternatively, you can simply sip one of the excellent Brugse Zot (Bruges Fool, 7%) or Straffe Hendrik (Strong Henry, 9%) beers in the appealing brewery café.
BegijnhofBEGIJNHOF
Bruges’ delightful begijnhof originally dates from the 13th century. Although the last begijn has long since passed away, today residents of the pretty, whitewashed garden complex include a convent of Benedictine nuns. Despite the hoards of summer tourists, the begijnhof remains a remarkably tranquil haven. In spring a carpet of daffodils adds to the quaintness of the scene. Outside the 1776 gateway bridge lies a tempting, if predictably tourist-priced, array of terraced restaurants, lace shops and waffle peddlers.
Although there are well over 250 hotels and B&Bs, accommodation can still prove oppressively overbooked from Easter to September, over Christmas and especially at weekends, when two-night minimum stays are commonly required. In the lowest seasons (early November, late January), midrange options sometimes give big last-minute discounts. An all-night touch-screen computer outside the main tourist office displays hotel availability and contact information. The website www.brugge.be has a booking engine.
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