Mostar's world-famous 16th-century stone bridge is the centrepiece of its alluring, extensively restored old town where, at dusk, the lights of numerous mill-house restaurants twinkle across gushing streamlets. Further from the centre a scattering of shattered building shells remain as moving testament to the terrible 1990s conflict that divided the city. The surrounding sun-drenched Herzegovinian countryside produces excellent wines and offers a series of tempting day-trip attractions.
Stari MostBRIDGE
The world-famous Stari Most (Old Bridge) is Mostar's indisputable visual focus. Its pale stone arch magnificently throws back the golden glow of sunset or the tasteful night-time floodlighting. The bridge's swooping stone arch was originally built between 1557 and 1566 on the orders of Suleyman the Magnificent. The current structure is a very convincing 2004 rebuild following the bridge's 1993 bombardment during the civil war. Numerous well-positioned cafes and restaurants tempt you to sit and savour the splendidly restored scene.
In summer, young men leap over 20m from Stari Most's parapet. That's not a suicide attempt but a professional sport – donations are expected from spectators. Daredevil tourists can try jumping for themselves but only after paying 50KM and doing a brief training. Enquire at the Bridge-Divers' Clubhouse and listen very carefully to their advice: diving badly can prove fatal.
Spanski TrgAREA
Over 20 years ago Croat and Bosniak forces bombarded each other into the rubble across a 'front line' which ran along the Bulevar and Alese Šantića St. Even now, several shell-pocked skeletal buildings remain in ruins around Spanski Trg, notably the triangular nine-storey tower that was once Ljubljanska Banka ( Kralja Zvonimira bb).
Many Mostar agencies and hostels combine the following for a satisfying day trip:
Blagaj village, whose signature sight is a half-timbered sufi-house (tekija) standing beside the surreally blue-green Buna River, where it gushes out of a cliff-cave.
Počitelj steeply layered Ottoman-era fortress village that's one of BiH's most picture-perfect architectural ensembles.
Međugorje Curious for its mixture of pilgrim piety and Catholic kitsch ever since the Virgin Mary was reputedly spotted in a series of 1981 visions.
Kravice Waterfalls BiH's splendid 25m mini Niagara. Some tours give you several hours here to swim in natural pools.
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