The evocative capital of the medieval Bulgarian tsars, sublime Veliko Târnovo is dramatically set amid an amphitheatre of forested hills, divided by the ribboning Yantra River. Commanding pride of place is the magisterial Tsarevets Fortress, citadel of the Second Bulgarian Empire. It's complemented by scores of churches and other ruins, many still being unearthed. As the site of Bulgaria’s most prestigious university, Veliko Târnovo also boasts a revved-up nightlife that many larger towns would envy. Top-notch city restaurants offer commanding views of the river and castle; head to the Varosha quarter and the impossibly quaint Samovodska Charshiya to grab a bite (and a bargain) in olde worlde surrounds.
Tsarevets FortressFORTRESS
The inescapable symbol of Veliko Târnovo, this reconstructed fortress dominates the skyline, and is one of Bulgaria’s most beloved monuments. The former seat of the medieval tsars, it boasts the remains of more than 400 houses, 18 churches, the royal palace, an execution rock and more. Watch your step: there are lots of potholes, broken steps and unfenced drops. The fortress morphs into a psychedelic spectacle with a magnificent night-time sound-and-light show, held on public holidays.
Tsarevgrad Tarnov Wax MuseumWAX MUSEUM
En route to the Fortress is this new wax museum showcasing the medieval glory days of Veliko Târnovo. Explore the well-crafted figures (everyone from kings to craftsmen get a look-in), catch an explanatory film, or get in the mood playing dress-up in period costume (5 lv).
Sarafkina KâshtaMUSEUM
Built in 1861 by a rich Turkish moneylender, this fine five-storey National Revival–style house-museum displays antique ceramics, metalwork, woodcarvings, traditional costumes and jewellery.
Veliko Târnovo Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
Housed in a grand old building with a courtyard full of Roman sculptures, the museum contains Roman artefacts and medieval Bulgarian exhibits including a huge mural of the tsars, plus some ancient gold from nearby neolithic settlements.
Samovodska CharshiyaHISTORIC AREA
This atmospheric, cobblestoned historical quarter was Veliko Târnovo's biggest market square in the 1880s, and remains the place to come to shop, stroll and admire the town's many National Revival–era houses.
Ulitsa GurkoHISTORIC SITE
The oldest street in Veliko Târnovo, ul Gurko is a must-stroll. Overlooking the River Yantra, its charmingly crumbling period houses – which appear to be haphazardly piled on one another – provide a million photo-ops and conversations that start with 'Imagine living here...' Sturdy shoes a must.
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