Rising high above the Adriatic, the stark peaks of the Velebit Massif stretch for 145km and form a dramatic barrier between continental Croatia and the Adriatic coast. Paklenica National Park covers 36 sq km of this mountain chain. For everyone from Sunday strollers to rock climbers, the park offers a wealth of opportunities to explore and get up front and personal with some of the country’s finest scenery: trek up gorges, climb walls of stone or meander along shady paths next to a rushing stream.
The national park encompasses two deep gorges, Velika Paklenica (Great Paklenica) and Mala Paklenica (Small Paklenica), which scar the mountain range like giant hatchet marks, with cliffs over 400m high. The dry limestone karst that forms the Velebit Range is highly absorbent, but several springs provide a continuous source of water and nurture lush vegetation. About half the park is covered with forests, mostly beech and pine followed by white oak and varieties of hornbeam. The vegetation changes as you ascend, as does the climate, which progresses from Mediterranean to continental to subalpine. The lower regions, especially those with a southern exposure, can be fiercely hot in the summer, while thebura (cold northeasterly wind) that whips through the range in winter brings rain and sudden storms.
Animal life is scarce, but you may see Egyptian vultures, golden eagles, striped eagles and peregrine falcons, which nest on the cliffs of the two gorges. Lynx, bears and wolves live in the park’s upper regions, but your chances of seeing any are minuscule.
The best time to visit the park is in April, May, June or September. In late spring the park is at its greenest, the streams become torrents and there are few other visitors. In July and August you’ll still find the trails uncrowded, since most people come to the region for the sun and sea, but it can be too hot to hike comfortably.
Mala Paklenica to Velika Paklenica HIKING
This spectacular eight- to 10-hour hike takes in both Mala Paklenica and Velika Paklenica gorges. Beginning at Mala Paklenica (Entrance 2), the route follows a stunning narrow karst gorge. The initial three hours are quite tough – you have to scramble over colossal boulders (and use ropes at times) – but the route is well marked. The trail can get slippery after rain, and it crosses streams several times. It steadily progresses up Mala Paklenica gorge then zigzags up the west side of a hill to 680m. Eventually it evens out in a lovely high valley and then winds through pastureland and the abandoned hamlet of Jurline (an ideal spot for lunch). You’re rewarded with stunning views over canyon-like Velika Paklenica, before the path descends abruptly through forest to the valley floor. The route follows a river for an hour or so, passing grey-stone massifs and tunnels (currently being renovated for visitor access) that were a top-secret bunker in Tito’s time, until you reach the car park at Velika Paklenica. From here a signposted country lane loops back to Mala Paklenica, which is about an hour away.
Starigrad to Planinarski Dom HIKING
Start this hike at Entrance 1 and head right up into the Velika Paklenica gorge. When you pass a rocky waterfall with a stream on your right, you’ll be at Anića Luka , a green, semicircular plateau. After another kilometre, a steep trail leads up to the cave of Manita Peć (adult/concession 20/10KN; 
10am-1pm Jul-Sep, hours vary Oct-Jun) . There’s a wealth of stalagmites and stalactites enhanced by strategically placed lighting in the main chamber (40m long and 32m high). This cave is about a two-hour walk from the car park and must be visited with a guide (not included with admission; organise at the park entrance).
10am-1pm Jul-Sep, hours vary Oct-Jun) . There’s a wealth of stalagmites and stalactites enhanced by strategically placed lighting in the main chamber (40m long and 32m high). This cave is about a two-hour walk from the car park and must be visited with a guide (not included with admission; organise at the park entrance).
From the cave you can follow the trail to Vidakov Kuk , which takes 1½ hours. The ascent up the 866m peak is fairly rugged but, on a clear day, you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable view over the sea to Pag. You can continue on an easy trail to Ramići and then head east to the main trail up to the Planinarski Dom Paklenica shelter.
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