Hooped by 4.3km of superbly preserved stone ramparts, this graceful city is the belle of Provence’s ball. Its turn as the papal seat of power has bestowed Avignon with a treasury of magnificent art and architecture, none grander than the massive medieval fortress and papal palace, the Palais des Papes. Famed for its annual performing arts festival, these days Avignon is a lively student city and an ideal spot from which to step out into the surrounding region.
Palais des PapesPALACE
Palais des Papes, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is the world’s largest Gothic palace. Built when Pope Clement V abandoned Rome in 1309, it was the papal seat for 70-odd years. The immense scale testifies to the papacy's wealth; the 3m-thick walls, portcullises and watchtowers show its insecurity.
It takes imagination to picture the former luxury of these bare, cavernous stone halls, but multimedia audioguides (€2) assist. Highlights include 14th-century chapel frescoes by Matteo Giovannetti, and the Chambre du Cerf with medieval hunting scenes.
Pont St-BénezetBRIDGE
Legend says Pastor Bénezet had three saintly visions urging him to build a bridge across the Rhône. Completed in 1185, the 900m-long bridge with 20 arches linked Avignon with Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. It was rebuilt several times before all but four of its spans were washed away in the 1600s. Don't be surprised if you spot someone dancing; in France, the bridge is known as Pont d’Avignon after the nursery rhyme: 'Sur le pont d’Avignon/L’on y danse, l'on y danse…' (On Avignon Bridge, all are dancing…).
BUS
The bus station is down the ramp to the right as you exit the train station. Services include Marseille (€22, 35 minutes) and Nîmes (€1.50, 1¼ hours).
TRAIN
Avignon has two stations: Gare Avignon TGV, 4km southwest in Courtine, and Gare Avignon Centre, with services to/from Arles (€7.50, 20 minutes) and Nîmes (€9.70, 30 minutes).
Some TGVs to/from Paris (€123, 3½ hours) stop at Gare Avignon Centre, but TGVs to/from Marseille (€25, 30 minutes) and Nice (€60, 3¼ hours) only use Gare Avignon TGV.
In July and August, a direct Eurostar service operates on Saturday to/from London (from €140, six hours).
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