Bismarck and Marx, Einstein and Hitler, JFK and Bowie, they’ve all shaped – and been shaped by – Berlin, whose richly textured history stares you in the face at every turn. You might be distracted by the trendy, edgy, gentrified streets, by the bars bleeding a laid-back cool factor, by the galleries sprouting talent and pushing the envelope, but make no mistake – reminders of the German capital's past assault you while modernity sits around the corner.
Renowned for its diversity and tolerance, its alternative culture and night-owl stamina, the best thing about Berlin is the way it reinvents itself and isn't shackled by its unique past. And the world knows this – a steady stream of Germans from other parts of the country and a league of global expatriates are flocking here to see what all the fuss is about.
Key sights like the Reichstag, the Brandenburger Tor, Fernsehturm and Museumsinsel cluster in the historic city centre – Mitte. It also encompasses the maze-like historic Jewish quarter around Hackescher Markt, which now teems with fashionable boutiques, bars and restaurants. North of here, residential Prenzlauer Berg has a lively cafe and restaurant scene, while to the south loom the contemporary high-rises of Potsdamer Platz. Further south, gritty but cool Kreuzberg is party central, as is student-flavoured Friedrichshain east across the Spree River. Western Berlin's hub is Charlottenburg, with great shopping and a swish royal palace.
ReichstagHISTORIC BUILDING
One of Berlin's most iconic buildings, the 1894 Reichstag was burned, bombed, rebuilt, buttressed by the Berlin Wall, wrapped in fabric and eventually turned into the home of Germany's parliament, the Bundestag, by Lord Norman Foster. Its most distinctive feature, the glittering glass dome, is accessible by lift (reservations mandatory, see www.bundestag.de) and affords fabulous 360-degree city views. Those without a reservation can try scoring left-over tickets in the Service Center. Bring ID.
Brandenburger Tor & Pariser PlatzLANDMARK
A symbol of division during the Cold War, the landmark Brandenburg Gate now epitomises German reunification. Modelled after the Acropolis in Athens, the triumphal arch was completed in 1791 as the royal city gate and is crowned by the Quadriga sculpture – a winged goddess of victory piloting a horse-drawn chariot.
Holocaust MemorialMEMORIAL
Inaugurated in 2005, this football-field-sized memorial by American architect Peter Eisenman consists of 2711 sarcophagi-like concrete columns rising in sombre silence from undulating ground. You're free to access this maze at any point and make your individual journey through it. For context visit the subterranean Ort der Information; the exhibits will leave no one untouched. Audioguides are available.
Hitler's BunkerHISTORIC SITE
Berlin was burning and Soviet tanks advancing relentlessly when Adolf Hitler committed suicide on 30 April 1945, alongside Eva Braun, his long-time female companion, hours after their marriage. Today, a parking lot covers the site, revealing its dark history only via an information panel with a diagram of the vast bunker network, construction data and the site's post-WWII history.
PergamonmuseumMUSEUM
Even while undergoing renovation, the Pergamonmuseum still opens a fascinating window onto the ancient world. The palatial three-wing complex unites a rich feast of classical sculpture and monumental architecture from Greece, Rome, Babylon and the Middle East, including such famous stunners as the radiant-blue Ishtar Gate from Babylon, the Roman Market Gate of Miletus and the Caliph's Palace of Mshatta. Note that the namesake Pergamon Altar will be off limits until 2019.
Neues MuseumMUSEUM
David Chipperfield's reconstruction of the bombed-out Neues Museum is now the residence of Queen Nefertiti, the show-stopper of the Egyptian Museum that also features mummies, sculptures and sarcophagi. Pride of place of the Museum of Pre- and Early History in the same building goes to Trojan antiquities, a Neanderthal skull and a 3000-year-old gilded conical ceremonial hat. Museum tickets are only valid for admission during a designated half-hour time slot. Skip the queue by buying advance tickets online.
Berliner DomCHURCH
Pompous yet majestic, the Italian Renaissance–style former royal court (1905) does triple duty as house of worship, museum and concert hall. Inside it's gilt to the hilt and outfitted with a lavish marble-and-onyx altar, a 7269-pipe Sauer organ and elaborate royal sarcophagi. Climb up the 267 steps to the gallery for glorious city views.
DDR MuseumMUSEUM
This interactive museum does a delightful job at pulling back the iron curtain on an extinct society. Find out that East German kids were put through collective potty training, engineers earned little more than farmers and everyone, it seems, went on nudist holidays. A highlight is a simulated ride in a Trabi.
FernsehturmLANDMARK
Germany's tallest structure, the 368m-high TV Tower is as iconic to Berlin as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. On clear days, views from the panorama level at 203m are unbeatable. The upstairs Restaurant Sphere (mains €14 to 28) makes one revolution per hour. To skip the line, buy tickets online.
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