It's a shame the donkey, dog, cat and rooster in Grimm's Town Musicians of Bremen never actually made it here – they would have fallen in love with the place. This little city is big on charm, from the fairy-tale character statue to a jaw-dropping expressionist laneway and impressive town hall. On top of that, the Weser riverside promenade is a relaxing, bistro-and-beer garden–lined refuge and the lively student district ('Das Viertel') along Ostertorsteinweg is filled with indie boutiques, cafes, art-house cinemas and alt-flavoured cultural venues.
Bremen's key historic sights cluster around Markt and can easily be explored on foot.
MarktSQUARE
Bremen’s Unesco-recognised Markt is striking, especially because of its ornate, gabled and sculpture-festooned Rathaus (town hall; 1410). In front stands a 5.5m-high medieval statue of the knight Roland (1404), the symbolic protector of Bremen's civic rights and freedoms. On the town hall's western side, you'll find a sculpture of the Town Musicians of Bremen (1951).
Dom St PetriCHURCH
Bremen’s protestant main church has origins in the 8th century and got its ribbed vaulting, chapels and two high towers in the 13th century. Aside from the imposing architecture, the intricately carved pulpit and the baptismal font in the western crypt deserve a closer look. For panoramic views, climb the 265 steps to the top of the south tower. A separate entrance leads to the church's Bleikeller, a cellar where open coffins reveal eight bodies mummified in the incredibly dry air.
BöttcherstrasseSTREET
The charming medieval coopers' lane was transformed into a prime example of mostly expressionist architecture in the 1920s at the instigation of coffee merchant Ludwig Roselius. Its red-brick houses sport unique facades, whimsical fountains, statues and a carillon; many house artesanal shops and art museums. Its most striking feature is Bernhard Hoetger's golden Lichtbringer (Bringer of Light) relief that keeps an eye on the north entrance.
SchnoorNEIGHBOURHOOD
This maze of narrow, winding alleys was once the fishermen's quarter and later a red-light district. Now its doll's-house-sized cottages contain boutiques, restaurants, cafes and galleries. Though tourist-geared, there are some lovely corners to explore around here on a leisurely amble.
Bremen airport (www.airport-bremen.de) is about 3.5km south of the city and served by tram 6 (€2.50, 15 minutes). Train connections include regional trains to Bremerhaven (€12, 35 minutes), InterCity (IC) trains to Hamburg (€28, one hour) and Cologne (€67, three hours).
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