Germany : Dresden

Proof that there is life after death, Dresden has become one of Germany's most visited cities, and for good reason. Restorations have returned its historic core to its 18th-century heyday when it was famous throughout Europe as 'Florence on the Elbe'. Scores of Italian artists, musicians, actors and master craftsmen flocked to the court of Augustus the Strong, bestowing countless masterpieces upon the city.The devastating bombing raids in 1945 levelled most of these treasures. But Dresden is a survivor and many of the most important landmarks have since been rebuilt, including the elegant Frauenkirche. Today there's a constantly evolving arts and cultural scene and zinging pub and nightlife quarters, especially in the Outer Neustadt.

Dresden straddles the Elbe River, with the attraction-studded Altstadt (old town) in the south and the Neustadt (new town) pub and student quarter to the north.

FrauenkircheCHURCH

The domed Frauenkirche – Dresden’s most beloved symbol – has literally risen from the city's ashes. The original graced its skyline for two centuries before collapsing after the February 1945 bombing. After reunification a grassroots movement helped raise funds to rebuild the landmark. A spitting image of the original, it may not bear the gravitas of age but that only slightly detracts from its festive beauty inside and out. The altar, reassembled from nearly 2000 fragments, is especially striking.

ZwingerPALACE

The sprawling Zwinger, one of the most ravishing baroque buildings in Germany, today houses several important museums. The most important collection, the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery), displays a roll call of such art world darlings as Botticelli, Titian, Rubens, Vermeer and Dürer. A key work is the 500-year-old Sistine Madonna by Raphael. Fans of precious porcelain from Meissen and East Asia gravitate to the Porzellansammlung, while techno types will like the historic scientific instruments (globes, clocks, telescopes, etc) at theMathematisch-Physikalischer Salon.

SemperoperHISTORIC BUILDING

One of Germany's most famous opera houses, the Semperoper opened in 1841 and has hosted premieres of famous works by Richard Strauss, Carl Maria von Weber and Richard Wagner. Guided 45-minute tours operate almost daily (the 3pm tour is in English); exact times depend on the rehearsal and performance schedule. Buy advance tickets online to skip the queue.

AlbertinumMUSEUM

After massive renovations following severe 2002 flood damage, the Renaissance-era former arsenal is now the stunning home of the Galerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery), which displays an arc of paintings by prime practitioners from the 18th to the 20th centuries – Caspar David Friedrich to Claude Monet and Gerhard Richter – in gorgeous rooms orbiting a light-filled courtyard.

Dresden airport (DRS; www.dresden-airport.de) is about 9km north of the city centre and linked by the S2 train several times hourly (€2.20, 20 minutes). Direct train destinations include Leipzig (from €23.80, 70 to 100 minutes) and Berlin (€40, 2¼ hours). The S1 train runs to Meissen (€5.90, 35 minutes). Most trains stop at Dresden-Hauptbahnhof and at Dresden-Neustadt across the Elbe River.