Latvia : Cēsis


Not only is sweet little Cēsis (tsay-sis) one of Latvia's prettiest towns, it's also one of its oldest. Nestled within the forested confines of Gauja National Park, its cobbled lanes wend around a sturdy castle, a soaring church spire and a lazy lakeside park.
Cēsis History & Art MuseumCASTLE, MUSEUM
Right from the outset when you're handed a lit candle in a glass lantern, it's clear that this isn't an ordinary museum. At its centre is Cēsis Castle, founded in 1209 by the Livonian Brothers of the Sword. The candle's to help you negotiate the dark spiral stair in the western tower (the views from the top over Castle Park's picturesque lake are excellent). The museum's extremely interesting displays are in the adjoining 18th-century ‘new castle’.
Sleeping & Eating
ProvinceB&B
This cute celery-green guesthouse pops out from the dreary Soviet-era housing nearby. The 11 rooms are simple and spotless, and there's a cafe on the ground floor. English isn't its strong point.
Vinetas un Allas KārumlādesCAFE
The sign reads 'treats for a good day', which should be enough to entice you through the doors and leave you drooling in front of the cake counter. As well as the delicious sweets on display, it serves salad and soup. It's just a shame that the coffee's not better.

Four to five trains a day travel to/from Rīga (€3.50, 1¾ hours) and Sigulda (€2, 45 minutes).
There are also buses to Rīga (€4.15, two hours, hourly) and Sigulda (€1.85, 1½ hours, daily).
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