The Baltic's version of the French Riviera, Jūrmala is a long string of townships with grand wooden beach houses belonging to Russian oil tycoons and their supermodel trophy wives. Even during the height of communism, Jūrmala was a place to see and be seen. On summer weekends, jet-setters and day-tripping Rīgans flock to the resort town for some serious fun in the sun.
If you don't have a car or bicycle, you're best to head straight to the townships of Majori and Dzintari, the heart of the action. A 1km-long pedestrian street, Jomas iela, connects the two and is considered to be Jūrmala's main drag.
The highway connecting Rīga to Jūrmala was known as '10 Minutes in America' during Soviet times, because locally produced films set in the USA were always filmed on this busy asphalt strip. Motorists driving the 15km into Jūrmala must pay a €2 toll per day, even if they are just passing through. Keep an eye out for the multilane self-service toll stations sitting at both ends of the resort town.
Ķemeri National ParkNATIONAL PARK
Beyond Jūrmala's stretch of celebrity summer homes lies a verdant hinterland of drowsy fishing villages, quaking bogs and thick forests. At the end of the 19th century Ķemeri was known for its curative mud and spring water, attracting visitors from as far away as Moscow.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel MaMaBOUTIQUE HOTEL
The bedroom doors have thick, mattress-like padding on the interior (psycho-chic?) and the suites themselves are a veritable blizzard of white drapery. A mix of silver paint and pixie dust accents the ultramodern furnishings and amenities. If heaven had a bordello, it would probably look something like this.
36.LineMODERN LATVIAN
Popular local chef Lauris Alekseyev delivers modern twists on traditional Latvian dishes at this wonderful restaurant, occupying a slice of sand at the eastern end of Jūrmala. Enjoy the beach, then switch to casual attire for lunch or glam up for dinner. In the evening it’s not uncommon to find DJs spinning beats.
Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
Located across from Majori train station. Staff can assist with accommodation bookings and bicycle rental.
Two to three trains per hour link central Rīga to the sandy shores of Jūrmala. Disembark at Majori station (€1.50, 30 minutes) for the beach or at Ķemeri (€2.05, one hour) for the national park.
If you've got time to kill, the river boat New Way departs from the Old Rīga riverfront at 11am daily and takes 2½ hours to reach Majori. It then leaves from Majori pier at 5pm.
0 comments:
Post a Comment