Lithuania’s capital, Vilnius, doesn't get the attention it deserves. The city's surprising Old Town is a dazzling assemblage of bright baroque houses, inviting alleyways and colourful churches built around quiet courtyards. But this is no museum piece. The city's cosmopolitan heritage, enriched by Polish, Jewish and Russian influences, lends a sophisticated vibe, and thousands of students keep the energy level high. Push through big wooden doors to find lively pubs and bars, hidden terraces and romantic restaurants. Tumbledown buildings hide designer boutiques and high-end handicraft shops.
Cathedral Square (Katedros aikštė ), dominated by Vilnius Cathedral and its 57m-tall belfry, marks the centre of Vilnius and is home to the city's most important sights. The square buzzes with local life, especially during Sunday morning Mass. Amuse yourself by hunting for the secret stebuklas (miracle) tile; if found, it can grant you a wish if you stand on it and turn around clockwise. It marks the spot where the 650km Tallinn–Vilnius human chain, protesting against Soviet rule, ended in 1989.
The 48m-high Gediminas Hill rises just behind the square. The restored ruins of Gediminas Castle mark the spot where the city was founded in the 13th century. Scramble up (or take a handy funicular) for jaw-dropping views of Old Town.
Vilnius CathedralCHURCH
This national symbol occupies a spot originally used for the worship of Perkūnas, the Lithuanian thunder god; much later the Soviets turned the cathedral into a picture gallery. The first wooden cathedral was built here in 1387–88. St Casimir’s Chapel at the back is the showpiece. It has a baroque cupola, coloured marble and fresco scenes from St Casimir's life.
Palace of the Grand Dukes of LithuaniaMUSEUM
The palace that once marked the seat of the Lithuanian dukes has been painstakingly rebuilt and is a must for understanding Lithuanian history. The visitors' route begins on the ground floor, where traces of the old palace dating from the 16th and 17th centuries, and earlier, can still be seen, and proceeds upward through the centuries.
The palace was a modern-day wonder in its day, with a vast courtyard and lively social calendar that included masked balls, banquets and jousting matches. Under the Russian occupation at the end of the 18th century, the palace was torn down and left a ruin. It reopened in 2013 after a decade-long costly restoration.
National Museum of LithuaniaMUSEUM
The National Museum of Lithuania, identified by a proud statue of Mindaugas – the first and only king of Lithuania – at the front, features exhibits that look at everyday Lithuanian life from the 13th century until WWII. Of particular note are some of the country’s earliest coins, dating from the 14th century, as well as folk art and cross-crafting.
St Anne's ChurchCHURCH
Arguably the most beautiful church in Vilnius is tiny, late-15th-century St Anne’s Church (standing in front of the much larger Bernardine's Church). A graceful example of Gothic architecture, its sweeping curves and delicate pinnacles frame 33 different types of red brick. It's so fine Napoleon reputedly wanted to take it back to Paris.
St Casimir's ChurchCHURCH
This striking church is the city’s oldest baroque place of worship. St Casimir’s dome and cross-shaped ground plan defined a new style for 17th-century churches when the Jesuits built it between 1604 and 1615. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries and has recently emerged from another bout of renovation.
St Teresa's ChurchCHURCH
This Catholic church is baroque through and through: early baroque outside and ornate late baroque inside. Underneath its entrance is a chamber for the dead, which contains some fine examples of baroque tombs, but it is usually locked.
Museum of Genocide VictimsMUSEUM
This former headquarters of the Soviet KGB houses a museum dedicated to thousands of Lithuanians who were murdered, imprisoned or deported by the Soviet Union from WWII until the 1960s. Memorial plaques honouring those who perished tile the outside of the building. Inside, floors cover the harsh realities of Soviet occupation, including gripping personal accounts of Lithuanian deportees to Siberia.
TV TowerTOWER
It’s hard to miss the 326m TV tower on the city’s western horizon. This tall needle symbolises Lithuania’s strength of spirit; on 13 January 1991 Soviet special forces killed some 14 people here. Lithuanian TV kept broadcasting until the troops came through the tower door. From the observation deck (190m) Vilnius is spread out before you.
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