World Heritage–listed Luxembourg City sits high on a promontory overlooking the deep-cut valleys of the Pétrusse and Alzette Rivers. These gorges were the key to the city's defence from AD 963 when Count Sigefroi (or Siegfried) of Ardennes built a castle here. Luxembourg eventually grew to become one of Europe's strongest fortresses, earning the nickname 'Gibraltar of the North'. In 1867 the majority of the fortifications were removed as part of a treaty to reduce tensions between France and Germany, though a remarkable mass of bastion remnants and tunnels survives, providing visitors with spectacular viewpoints overlooking the interesting old quarters of Clausen, Pfaffenthal and the Grund.
Old Town
Within the compact, mostly pedestrianised Old Town all sights are walking distance from each other. Access to the fairy-tale Grund area is easiest using a public elevator on Plateau du St-Esprit.
Chemin de la CornicheAREA
This pedestrian promenade has been hailed as 'Europe's most beautiful balcony'. It winds along the course of the 17th-century city ramparts with views across the river canyon towards the hefty fortifications of the Wenzelsmauer (Wenceslas Wall). Across Rue Sigefroi, the rampart-top walk continues along Blvd Victor Thorn to the Dräi Tier (Triple Gate) tower.
Musée d'Histoire de la Ville de LuxembourgMUSEUM
This remarkably engrossing and interactive museum hides within a series of 17th-century houses, including a former ‘holiday home’ of the Bishop of Orval. A lovely garden and open terrace offer great views.
Royal PalacePALACE
Photogenically a-twitter with little pointy turrets, this 1573 palace has been much extended over the years. It now houses the Grand Duke’s office with parliament using its 1859 annex. For a brief period in summer the palace opens for gently humorous 45-minute guided tours, which deal mostly with the Duke’s family history. From the medieval-gothic dining room, the palace’s interior style morphs into sumptuous gilded romanticism upstairs.
MNHAMUSEUM
Startlingly modern for its Old Town setting, this unusual museum offers a fascinating if uneven coverage of art and history. It starts deep in an excavated rocky basement with exhibits of Neolithic flints then sweeps you somewhat unevenly through Gallic tomb chambers, Roman mosaics and Napoleonic medals to an excellent if relatively small art gallery. Cezanne and Picasso get a look-in while Luxembourg's Expressionist artist Joseph Kutter (1894–1941) gets a whole floor.
Cathédrale Notre-DameCATHEDRAL
Most memorable for its distinctively elongated black spires, the 17th-century cathedral contains a tiny but highly revered Madonna-and-child idol (above the altar) and the graves of the royal family (in the crypt).
SpuerkeessMUSEUM, ARCHITECTURE
In a dramatic, century-old, castle-style building, Spuerkeess is the state savings bank, and hosts an intriguing Bank Museum tracing 150 years of tradition and innovation in banking, from piggy banks to ATMs and bank robbers.
MudamGALLERY
Ground-breaking exhibitions of modern, installation and experiential art are hosted in this airy architectural icon designed by IM Pei. The museum’s collection includes everything from photography to fashion, design and multimedia. The glass-roofed cafe makes a decent lunch/snack spot.
To find Mudam, take bus 1, 13 or 16 to 'Philharmonie', walk around the striking Philharmonie and descend past Hotel Melia. One Friday a month it's open to 10pm.
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