Wedged between brooding mountains and a moody corner of the bay, this dramatically beautiful town combines historic grace with vibrant street life. From a distance Kotor's sturdy ancient walls are barely discernible from the mountain's grey hide but at night they're spectacularly lit, reflecting in the water to give the town a golden halo. Within those walls lie labyrinthine marbled lanes where churches, shops, bars and restaurants surprise you on hidden piazzas.
The best thing to do in Kotor is to get lost and found again in the maze of streets. You'll soon know every corner, as the town is quite small, but there are plenty of churches to pop into and many coffees to be drunk in the shady squares.
Sea GateGATE
The main entrance to the town was constructed in 1555 when the town was under Venetian rule (1420–1797). Look out for the winged lion of St Mark, Venice’s symbol, which is displayed prominently on the walls here and in several other spots around the town. Above the gate the date of the city’s liberation from the Nazis is remembered with a communist star and a quote from Tito.
As you pass through the gate, look for the 15th-century stone relief of the Madonna and Child flanked by St Tryphon and St Bernard. Stepping through onto Trg od Oružja (Weapons Sq) you’ll see a strange stone pyramid in front of the clock tower (1602); it was once used as a pilloryto shame wayward citizens.
Town WallsFORTRESS
Kotor's fortifications started to head up St John's Hill in the 9th century and by the 14th century a protective loop was completed; it was added to right up until the 19th century. The energetic can make a 1200m ascent up the fortifications via 1350 steps to a height of 260m above sea level. There are entry points near the North Gate and behind Trg od Salate; avoid the heat of the day and bring lots of water.
St Nicholas’ ChurchCHURCH
Breathe in the smell of incense and beeswax in this relatively unadorned Orthodox church (1909). The silence, the iconostasis with its silver bas-relief panels, the dark wood against bare grey walls, the filtered light through the dome and the simple stained glass conspire to create a mystical atmosphere.
St Tryphon’s CathedralCHURCH
Kotor’s most impressive building, this Catholic cathedral was consecrated in the 12th century but reconstructed after several earthquakes. When the entire frontage was destroyed in 1667, the baroque bell towers were added; the left one remains unfinished. The cathedral’s gently hued interior is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture with slender Corinthian columns alternating with pillars of pink stone, thrusting upwards to support a series of vaulted roofs. Its gilded silver bas-relief altar screen is considered Kotor’s most valuable treasure.
Gurdić GateGATE
Fewer tourists make it to the south end of town, where the houses narrow into a slim corridor leading to this bastion and gate (parts of which date from the 13th century) and the drawbridge over the Gurdić spring. Without the crowds you can easily imagine yourself transported through time here.
A Day Out On Monty BSAILING
If you don't have €1000 to blow on a luxury yacht, join British expats Katie and Tim (and their two little doggies) for a sail on the 44ft ketch which doubles as their home (and kennel).
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