Poland : Gdańsk

The Hanseatic port of Gdańsk grew wealthy during the Middle Ages, linking inland cities with seaports around the world. That wealth is on display in the form of a bustling riverbank, mammoth red-brick churches and a gleaming central square.

Gdańsk has played an outsized role in history. The creation of the 'Free City of Danzig', at the conclusion of World War I, served as a pretext for Hitler to invade Poland at the start of WWII. The Germans fired the first shots of the war here on 1 September 1939 at the Polish garrison at Westerplatte.

In August 1980, the city became the centre of Poland's anticommunist movement with the establishment of the Solidarity trade union, led by its charismatic leader (and future Polish president), Lech Wałęsa.

Gdańsk's major sights are situated in the Main Town (Główne Miasto). Much of what you see, including the dazzling palaces that line the central promenade, Long St (ul Długa), was rebuilt from rubble after the bombardment of WWII.

A sensible approach is to walk the former Royal Route, starting at theUpland Gate (Brama Wyżynna), at the western end of Long St and the nearby Golden Gate (Złota Brama), a triumphal arch built in 1612. Then follow the street as it widens into Long Market (Długi Targ) to end at the majestic Green Gate (Brama Zielona). From here, pick up the city's evocative river walk along the embankment of the River Motława.

Historical Museum of GdańskMUSEUM

The museum is located in the historic town hall, which boasts Gdańsk’s highest tower at 81.5m. The showpiece is the Red Room (Sala Czerwona), done up in Dutch Mannerist style from the end of the 16th century. The 2nd floor houses exhibitions related to Gdańsk’s history, including photos of the destruction of 1945. From here you can enter thetower for great views across the city.

Amber MuseumMUSEUM

This museum is dedicated to all things amber and the craft of designing and creating amber jewellery. The musuem is located in the Foregate, a former prison and torture chamber, so in addition to amber displays, there's also some startlingly realistic displays of torture chambers. Two for one!

St Mary's ChurchCHURCH

Dominating the heart of the Main Town, St Mary’s is often cited as the largest brick church in the world. Some 105m long and 66m wide at the transept, its massive squat tower climbs 78m high into the Gdańsk cityscape. Begun in 1343, St Mary’s didn’t reach its present proportions until 1502. Don't miss the 15th-century astronomical clock, placed in the northern transept, and the church tower (405 steps above the city).

National Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

This is a sprawling exhibition of maritime history and Gdańsk's role through the centuries as a Baltic seaport. Headquarters is the multimillion-euro Maritime Cultural Centre, with a permanent interactive exhibition 'People-Ships-Ports'. Other exhibitions include the MS Sołdek, the first vessel to be built at the Gdańsk shipyard in the postwar years and theŻuraw (ul Szeroka 67/68), a 15th-century loading crane that was the biggest in its day. More displays are housed in granaries (ul Ołowianka 9-13) across the river.

BUS

The bus station (PKS Gdańsk; www.pks.gdansk.pl ) is behind the main train station. PKS buses head to Warsaw hourly (55zł, 5¾ hours), as do services of Polski Bus(www.polskibus.com).

TRAIN

The city's train station, Gdańsk Główny (Gdańsk Główny; www.pkp.pl; ul Podwale Grodzkie 1), is located on the western outskirts of the Old Town. Most long-distance trains actually start or finish at Gdynia, so make sure you get on/off quickly here.

Useful direct train connections include to Toruń (50zł, three hours, three daily), Kraków (80zł, eight hours, three daily), Poznań (30zł, 3¾ hours, three daily) and Warsaw (90zł, six hours, five daily). International destinations include Berlin (seven hours, two daily).