Poland : Lublin

Poland's eastern metropolis admittedly lacks the grandeur of Gdańsk or Kraków, but does have an attractive Old Town, with beautiful churches and tiny alleyways. It's a natural jumping off point for exploring southeastern Poland. Thousands of students make for a lively restaurant, bar and club scene.

Lublin plays an important role in Polish and Jewish history. It was here in 1569 that the Lublin Union was signed, uniting Poland and Lithuania to form one of the largest and most powerful entities in Europe in its day. For those interested in Jewish heritage, for centuries Lublin served as a centre of European Jewish culture. The Holocaust ended this vibrant community, and one of the most notorious Nazi extermination camps, Majdanek, lies at Lublin's doorstep.

Lublin CastleMUSEUM

Lublin’s royal castle dates from the 12th and 13th centuries, though it's been rebuilt many times over the years. It was here in 1569 where the union with Lithuania was signed. The castle is home to both the Lublin Museum and the surviving Gothic Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which dates from the 14th century. Each requires a separate entry ticket.

Cathedral of St John the BaptistCHURCH

This former Jesuit church dates from the 16th century and is the largest in Lublin. There are many impressive details to behold, including the baroque trompe l’œil frescos (the work of Moravian artist Józef Majer) and the 17th-century altar made from a black Lebanese pear tree. The acoustic vestry (so called for its ability to project whispers) and thetreasury (skarbiec), behind the chapel, also merit attention.

MajdanekHISTORIC SITE

Four kilometres southeast of the centre is the German Nazi Majdanek extermination camp, where tens of thousands of people were murdered during WWII. Unlike other extermination camps, the Nazis went to no effort to conceal Majdanek. A 5km walk starts at the visitors centre, passes the foreboding Monument of Fight & Martyrdom, through parts of the barracks and finishes at the guarded mausoleum containing the ashes of many victims.

Old Jewish CemeteryCEMETERY

The old Jewish cemetery, established in 1541, has 30-odd readable tombstones, including the oldest Jewish tombstone in Poland in its original location. The graveyard is on a hill between ul Sienna and ul Kalinowszczyzna, about 500 metres to the east and north of the main bus terminal. It is surrounded by a high brick wall and the gate is locked. Contact the tourist office before you walk over to arrange a visit.

Underground RouteWALKING TOUR

This 280m trail winds its way through connected cellars beneath the Old Town, with historical exhibitions along the way. Entry is from the neoclassical Old Town Hall in the centre of the pleasant Market Sq (Rynek) at approximately two-hourly intervals; check with the tourist office for exact times.

BUS

PKS buses run from the bus station ( lublin.pks.busportal.pl ), opposite the castle. From here, Polski Bus ( www.polskibus.com) heads to Warsaw (three hours, five daily). Private minibuses run to various destinations, including Zamość (15zł, 1½ hours, hourly), from a minibus station north of the bus terminal.

TRAIN

The train station is 1.8km south of the Old Town. Useful direct train connections included to Kraków (62zł, four hours, two daily) and Warsaw (37zł, 2¾ hours, five daily).