Legend has it the Pied Piper re-emerged from Hamelin in Braşov, and indeed there's something whimsical about the city, with its fairy-tale turrets and cobbled streets. Dramatically overlooked by Mt Tâmpa, the trees sporting a russet-gold coat (and cocky Hollywood-style sign), this is a remarkably relaxed city. Wander its maze of streets, stopping for caffeine injections at bohemian cafes, and lose yourself in a beguiling coalescence of Austro-Hungarian gingerbread roofs, baroque statues, medieval spires and Soviet flat-tops.
In addition to the sights below, explore the Old Town walls and bastions that line the centre on the eastern and western flanks. Many have been restored.
Piaţa SfatuluiPUBLIC SQUARE
This wide square, chock-full with cafes, was once the heart of medieval Braşov. In the centre stands the 1420 Council House (Casa Sfatului), topped by the Trumpeter's Tower, in which town councillors, known as centurions, would meet. These days at midday, traditionally costumed musicians appear from the top of the tower like figures in a Swiss clock.
Black ChurchCHURCH
Braşov’s main landmark, the Black Church is the largest Gothic church between Vienna and İstanbul, and is still used by German Lutherans today. Built between 1383 and 1480, it was named for its appearance after a fire in 1689. The original statues from the exterior of the apse are now inside.
Mt TâmpaMOUNTAIN
Towering over the city from the east, 940m Mt Tâmpa – with its Hollywood-style sign – was Braşov’s original defensive wall. You can hike up (about an hour) or take a cable car to reach a small viewing platform offering stunning views over the city and the possibility of a light bite or drink at a communist-era dining room.
BUS
Maxitaxis leave every half-hour for Bucharest (30 lei, 2½ hours); about four or five maxitaxis leave for Sibiu (25 lei, 2½ hours); nine or 10 go daily to Sighişoara (25 lei, two hours). The most accessible station is Autogara 1 (Bus Station 1; %0268-427 267; www.autogari.ro; B-dul Gării 1), next to the train station. Some buses, including several to Bran (7 lei, one hour), leave from Autogara 2 (Bus Station www.autogari.ro), 3km north of the centre.
TRAIN
The train station ( www.cfrcalatori.ro) is 2km northeast of the centre. Buy tickets at the station. There are ATMs and a left-luggage office. Bus 4 runs from the station to Piaţa Unirii in the centre (or walk 20 minutes).
Braşov is an important train junction and connections are good to cities around the country. Trains to Budapest also pass through here. Daily domestic train service includes hourly to Bucharest (50 lei, three hours), several to Sighişoara (41 lei, 2½ hours), two to Sibiu (50 lei, four hours) and several to Cluj-Napoca (75 lei, six hours).
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