Veliky Novgorod (usually shortened to Novgorod) is a proud and beautiful city, billed as the 'Birthplace of Russia'. It was here, in 862, that Prince Rurik proclaimed the modern Russian state – the Rurik dynasty went on to rule Russia for more than 750 years. Its glorious Cathedral of St Sophia is the oldest church in Russia. Straddling the Volkhov River, this attractive, tourist-friendly destination is a popular weekend getaway for St Petersburg residents – to avoid the crowds, come during the week.
KremlinFORTRESS
On the west bank of the Volkhov River, and surrounded by a pleasant wooded park, the kremlin is one of Russia’s oldest. Originally called the Detinets (and still often referred to as such), the fortification dates back to the 9th century, though it was later rebuilt with brick in the 14th century; this still stands today. The complex is worth seeing with a guide; arrange one through the tourist office. Boat tours run hourly (May to October, R300) from the Kremlin's pier and Yaroslav's Court towards Lake Ilmen: contact the tourist office to book.
Cathedral of St SophiaCHURCH
This is the oldest church in Russia (finished in 1050) and one of the country's oldest stone buildings. It's the kremlin's focal point and you couldn't miss it if you tried – its golden dome positively glows. St Sophia houses many icons dating from the 14th century, but none are as important as that of Novgorod's patron saint, Our Lady of the Sign, which, the story goes, miraculously saved the city from destruction in 1170 after being struck by an arrow.
Novgorod State United MuseumMUSEUM
This must-see museum houses three strikingly comprehensive exhibitions covering the history of Veliky Novgorod, Russian woodcarving and Russian icons. The latter contains one of the world's largest collections of icons, with around 260 pieces placed in chronological order, allowing you to appreciate the progression of skills and techniques through the centuries.
Yaroslav's CourtHISTORIC SITE
Across a footbridge from the kremlin are the remnants of an 18th-century market arcade. Beyond that is the market gatehouse, an array of churches sponsored by 13th- to 16th-century merchant guilds, and a 'road palace' built in the 18th century as a rest stop for Catherine the Great.
The 12th-century Court Cathedral of St Nicholas is all that remains of the early palace complex of the Novgorod princes, from which Yaroslav's Court (Yaroslavovo dvorishche) gets its name. The cathedral holds church artefacts and temporary exhibitions of local interest. Downstairs you can see fragments from the church's original frescos.
The train station (Новгород-на-Волховеon RZD timetables) and bus station (Автовокзал) are next to each other on Oktyabryskaya ul, 1.5km northwest of the kremlin.
Lastochka high speed trains connect with St Petersburg’s Moscow Station (R400, three hours, two daily). Moscow can be reached in 4½ hours on a combination of Lastochka and Sapsan high speed trains or via a handy overnight train (platskart/kupe R1250/2400, eight hours) leaving at 9.20pm.
Bus services include St Petersburg (R330, four hours, 13 daily).
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