Outspoken, adventurous, proud and audacious: Belgrade is by no means a 'pretty' capital, but its gritty exuberance makes it one of the most happening cities in Europe. It is here where the Sava River meets the Danube (Dunav), and old-world culture gives way to new-world nightlife.
Grandiose coffee houses, quirky sidewalk ice-creameries and smoky dens all find rightful place along Knez Mihailova, a lively pedestrian boulevard flanked by historical buildings all the way to the ancient Kalemegdan Citadel, crown of the city.
'Belgrade' literally translates as 'White City', but Serbia's colourful capital is red hot.
Kalemegdan CitadelFORTRESS
(Kalemegdanska tvrđava)
Some 115 battles have been fought over imposing, impressive Kalemegdan, and the citadel was destroyed more than 40 times throughout the centuries. Fortifications began in Celtic times, and the Romans extended it onto the flood plains during the settlement of 'Singidunum', Belgrade's Roman name. The fort's bloody history, discernible despite today's plethora of jolly cafes and funfairs, only makes Kalemegdan all the more fascinating.
Military MuseumMUSEUM
Tucked away in Belgrade's sprawling Kalemegdan Citadel, this museum presents the complete military history of the former Yugoslavia. Gripping displays include captured Kosovo Liberation Army weapons, bombs and missiles (courtesy of NATO), rare guns and bits of the American stealth fighter that was shot down in 1999. You'll find the museum through the Stambol Gate, built by the Turks in the mid-1700s and used for public executions.
National MuseumMUSEUM
Trg Republike (Republic Sq), a meeting point and outdoor exhibition space, is home to the National Museum. Lack of funding for renovations has kept it mostly shuttered for the last decade, though some exhibitions are again open to the public.
Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM
This museum features traditional costumes, working utensils and folksy mountain-village interiors.
Gallery of FrescosGALLERY
The gallery features full-size replicas (and the odd original) of Byzantine Serbian church art, right down to the last scratch. Unlike the sensitive originals, these frescos can be photographed to your heart's content.
Nikola Tesla MuseumMUSEUM
Meet the man on the 100DIN note at one of Belgrade's best museums. Release your inner nerd with some wondrously sci-fi-ish interactive elements. Tesla's ashes are kept here in a glowing, golden orb: at the time of research, debate was raging between the museum and its supporters and the church as to whether they should be moved to hallowed ground.
Museum of AutomobilesMUSEUM
This compelling collection of cars and motorcycles is located in Belgrade's first public garage. Check out the '57 Caddy convertible: only 25,000km and one careful owner – President Tito.
Historical Museum of SerbiaMUSEUM
Home to an absorbing wealth of archaeological, ethnographic and military collections. It's your best bet until the National Museum reopens entirely.
Sveti SavaCHURCH
Sveti Sava is the world's biggest Orthodox church, a fact made entirely obvious when looking at the city skyline from a distance or standing under its dome. The church is built on the site where the Turks apparently burnt relics of St Sava. Work on the church interior (frequently interrupted by wars) continues today.
Maršal Tito's GraveMONUMENT
A visit to Tito's mausoleum is obligatory. Also on display are thousands of elaborate relay batons presented to him by young 'Pioneers', plus gifts from political leaders and the voguish set of the era. It's attached to the fascinating Museum of Yugoslav History. Take trolleybus 40 or 41 at the south end of Parliament on Kneza Miloša. It's the second stop after turning into Bul Mira: ask the driver to let you out at Kuća Cveća.
Ada CiganlijaBEACH
In summertime, join the hordes of sea-starved locals (up to 250,000 a day) for sun and fun at this artificial island on the Sava. Cool down with a swim, kayak or windsurf after a leap from the 55m bungee tower. Take bus 52 or 53 from Zeleni Venac.
BUS
Belgrade has two adjacent bus stations, near the eastern banks of the Sava River: BAS (www.bas.rs ; Železnička 4) and Lasta ( www.lasta.rs ; Železnička 2). Buses run from both to international and Serbian destinations. Sample daily routes include Belgrade to Sarajevo (2340DIN, eight hours), Ljubljana (4000DIN, 7½ hours) and Vienna (4400DIN, 9½ hours); frequent domestic services include Subotica (800DIN, three hours), Novi Sad (520DIN, one hour), Niš (1380DIN, three hours) and Novi Pazar (1400DIN, three hours).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Most major car-hire companies have offices at Nikola Tesla Airport. See www.beg.aero/en for a full list.
TRAIN
The central train station (Savski Trg 2) has an information office on Platform 1, tourist information office, exchange bureau and sales counter (Savski Trg 2, Central Train Station; h24hrs).
Frequent trains go to Novi Sad (288DIN, 1½ hours), Subotica (560DIN, three hours) and Niš (784DIN, four hours). See www.serbianrailways.com for timetables and fares.
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