The High Tatras (Vysoké Tatry), the tallest range in the Carpathian Mountains, tower over most of Eastern Europe. Some 25 peaks measure above 2500m. The massif is only 25km wide and 78km long, but photo opportunities are enough to get you fantasising about a National Geographic career – pristine snowfields, ultramarine mountain lakes, thundering waterfalls, undulating pine forests and shimmering alpine meadows. Most of this jagged range is part of the Tatra National Park (Tanap): not that this fact has arrested considerable development on the Slovakian ski slopes.
Midmountain, three main resort towns string west to east. Štrbské Pleso is the traditional ski centre and is most crowded, with construction galore. Smokovec, 11km east, is an amalgam of the Nový (New), Starý (Old), Dolný (Lower) and Horný (Upper) settlements. Here there's still a bit of a turn-of-the-20th-century heyday feel, plus the most services. Tatranská Lomnica, 5km further, is the quaintest, quietest village. All have mountain access by cable car, funicular or chairlift. Poprad is the closest city (with mainline train station and airport), 14km south of central Starý Smokovec.
When planning your trip, keep in mind that the highest trails are closed because of snow from November to mid-June. July and August are the warmest (and most crowded) months. Hotel prices and crowds are at their lowest from October to April.
A 600km network of trails covers the alpine valleys and some peaks, with full-service mountain huts where hikers can stop for a meal or a rest along the way. Routes are colour-coded and easy to follow.
The red 65km Tatranská Magistrála Trail transects the High Tatras from west to east, running beneath the peaks at average elevations of 1300m to 1800m. It's connected at several points by cable car to the resort towns. Our favourite section is Skalnaté pleso to Chata pri Zelenom plese (2¼ hours).
Pick up one of the numerous detailed maps and hiking guides available at bookstores and information offices. Park regulations require you to keep to trails and refrain from picking flowers. Be aware that many trails are rocky and uneven, watch for sudden thunderstorms on ridges where there's no protection, and know that the assistance of the Mountain Rescue Service is not free.
Distances for hikes in Slovak national parks are officially given in hours rather than kilometres, so we have therefore indicated hikes in hours, as per official trail estimates. Depending on the gradient and terrain in the High Tatras a reasonably fit person can expect to hike between 2km and 5km per hour.
Note that ski resorts in peak season (Christmas through January and February) command higher prices for passes. If in doubt check www.vt.sk for further information.
To reach the Tatras by public transport, you first have to make it to Poprad, on the main west-east railway line between Bratislava and Košice.
From Poprad train station, a narrow-gauge electric train runs up to the resort town of Starý Smokovec. It then makes numerous stops heading west to Štrbské Pleso and east to Tatranská Lomnica; buses also run from Poprad to all three resort towns. Check schedules at www.cp.atlas.sk.
BUS
Buses run from Poprad to Starý Smokovec (€0.90, 15 minutes, half-hourly), Tatranská Lomnica (€1.30, 35 minutes, hourly) and Štrbské Pleso (€1.70, one hour, every 45 minutes).
TRAIN
From 6am until 10pm, electric trains (TEZ) run more or less hourly. Buy individual TEZ tickets at stations and block tickets (one to three) at tourist offices. Validate all on board.
The High Tatras Electric Railway has trains from Poprad up to Starý Smokovec (€1.50, 25 minutes), Tatranská Lomnica (€1.50, 40 minutes) and Štrbské Pleso (€2, 70 minutes). Other routes on this line include Štrbské Pleso–Starý Smokovec (€1.50, 40 minutes) and Štrbské Pleso–Tatranská Lomnica (€2, 70 minutes).
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