Slovenia's capital and largest city also happens to be one of Europe's greenest and most liveable capitals. Car traffic is restricted in the centre, leaving the leafy banks of the emerald-green Ljubljanica River, which flows through the city's heart, free for pedestrians and cyclists. In summer, cafes set up terrace seating along the river, lending the feel of a perpetual street party. Slovenia's master of early-Modern, minimalist design, Jože Plečnik, graced Ljubljana with beautiful bridges and buildings. The museums, hotels and restaurants are among the best in the country.
The easiest way to see Ljubljana is on foot. The oldest part of town, with the most important historical buildings and sights (including Ljubljana Castle), lies on the right (east) bank of the Ljubljanica River. Center, which has the lion’s share of the city’s museums and galleries, is on the left (west) side of the river.
Ljubljana CastleCASTLE
There’s been a human settlement on the site of this hilltop castle since at least Celtic times, but the oldest structures these days date back 500 years and were built following an earthquake in 1511. It’s free to ramble around the castle precincts, but you’ll have to pay to enter the Watchtower, the Chapel of St George, to see the Slovenian history exhibition and join the costumed Time Machine tour. The fastest way to reach the castle is via the funicular from Krekov trg, which keeps the same hours as the castle.
Prešernov TrgSQUARE
The centrepiece of Ljubljana's wonderful architectural aesthetic is this marvellous square, a public space of understated elegance that not only serves as the link between the Center district and the Old Town, but as the city's favourite meeting point. The square itself is dominated by a monument to the national poet France Prešeren (1905). Immediately south of the statue is the city's architectural poster-child, the small but much celebrated Triple Bridge (Tromostovje), designed by prolific architect Jože Plečnik.
National & University LibraryARCHITECTURE
This library is Plečnik’s masterpiece, completed in 1941. To appreciate this great man’s philosophy, enter through the main door (note the horse-head doorknobs) on Turjaška ulica – you’ll find yourself in near darkness, entombed in black marble. As you ascend the steps, you’ll emerge into a colonnade suffused with light – the light of knowledge, according to the architect’s plans.
City Museum of LjubljanaMUSEUM
The excellent city museum focuses on Ljubljana’s history, culture and politics via imaginative multimedia and interactive displays. The reconstructed Roman street that linked the eastern gates of Emona to the Ljubljanica, and the collection of well-preserved classical finds in the basement, are both worth a visit in themselves.
National Museum of SloveniaMUSEUM
Highlights here include the highly embossed Vače situla, a Celtic pail from the late 6th century BC unearthed in a town east of Ljubljana, and a Stone Age bone flute discovered near Cerkno in western Slovenia in 1995. There are also examples of Roman glass and jewellery found in 6th-century Slavic graves, along with many other historical finds. Check out the statues of the Muses and Fates relaxing on the stairway banisters.
Museum of Modern ArtMUSEUM
This museum houses the very best in Slovenian art – modern or otherwise. Keep an eye out for works by painters Tone Kralj (Peasant Wedding), the expressionist France Mihelič (The Quintet) and the surrealist Štefan Planinc (Primeval World series) as well as sculptors like Jakob Savinšek(Protest). The museum also owns works by the influential 1980s and 1990s multimedia group Neue Slowenische Kunst (NSK; Suitcase for Spiritual Use: Baptism under Triglav) and the artists’ cooperative Irwin (Kapital).
BUS
Buses to destinations both within Slovenia and abroad leave from the bus station (Avtobusna Postaja Ljubljana ; www.ap-ljubljana.si )in front of the train station. Next to the ticket windows are multilingual information phones and a touch-screen computer; there's a left luggage(Trg OF 4; per day €2; h5am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 5.30am-10.30pm Sun) area at window 3. Frequent buses serve Bohinj (€8.30, two hours, hourly) via Bled (€6.50, 1¼ hours), Divača (€7.90, 1½ hours, eight daily), Piran (€12, 2½ hours, up to seven daily) and Postojna (€6, one hour, half-hourly).
TRAIN
Domestic and international trains arrive at and depart from central Ljubljana’s train station (Železniška Postaja ; www.slo-zeleznice.si ). Buy domestic tickets from window Nos 1 to 8, international ones from window No 9. There are coin lockers (Trg OF 6; per day €2-3; h24hr) for left luggage on platform 1. Useful domestic destinations include Bled (€5.10, one hour, half-hourly) and Bohinjska Bistrica (€7.20, two hours, six daily) via Jesenice.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
You can reach Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport (Aerodrom Ljubljana; www.lju-airport.si/eng) by public bus (€4.10, 45 minutes) from stop No 28 at the bus station. These run at 5.20am and hourly from 6.10am to 8.10pm Monday to Friday; at the weekend there’s a bus at 6.10am and then one every two hours from 9.10am to 7.10pm. Buy tickets from the driver.
The best of several airport-shuttle services is GoOpti (www.goopti.com), which can also transfer you to Jože Pučnik Airport (from €9, half-hour) along with some 20 other airports in the region including Venice, Vienna and Klagenfurt. Book by phone or online; rates depend on pick-up time and whether you are sharing or prefer a private transfer.
A taxi from the airport to Ljubljana will cost from €30.
BICYCLE
Ljubljana is a pleasure for cyclists, and there are bike lanes and special traffic lights everywhere. The Bicike(lj) cycle-sharing scheme is generally geared towards residents and short rides. Instead, rent two-wheelers by the hour or day from Ljubljana Bike at the Slovenian Tourist Information Centre.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Ljubljana's city buses operate every five to 15 minutes from 5am (6am on Sunday) to around 10.30pm. A flat fare of €1.20 (good for 90 minutes of unlimited travel, including transfers) is paid with a stored-value magnetic Urbana card, which can be purchased at newsstands, tourist offices and the LPP Information Centre for €2; credit can then be added (from €1 to €50).
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