Sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is as ‘off the beaten track’ as you can get in Europe. Attracting just a fraction of the number of visitors of neighbouring countries (12,000 to 20,000 annually in recent years), it’s a natural destination for travellers who like to plant the flag and visit lands few others have gone to.
But Moldova’s charms run deeper than being merely remote. The country’s wines are some of the best in Europe and a fledgling wine-tourism industry, where you can tour wineries and taste the grape, has taken root. The countryside is delightfully unspoiled and the hospitality of villagers is authentic. The capital, Chişinău, is surprisingly lively, with excellent restaurants and bars. Across the Dniestr River lies the separatist Russian-speaking region of Transdniestr. It’s a time-warp place, where the Soviet Union still reigns supreme and busts of Lenin line the main boulevards.
COUNTRY FACTS
Area 33,851 sq km
Capital Chişinău
Country Code 373
Currency Moldovan leu (plural lei)
Emergency ambulance 903, fire 901, police 902
Language Moldovan
Money ATMs abundant in Chişinău; less common in smaller cities and towns
Population 3.6 million (including Transdniestr)
Visas None for the EU, USA, Canada, Japan, Australia and New Zealand, but required for South Africa and many other countries
ACCOMMODATION
The accommodation situation in Chişinău is improving and the city has a number of very nice top-end hotels. The problem continues to be a lack of decent options at the midrange and budget price points. This may be one city to consider a splurge, since the difference in quality and comfort between the better hotels and cheaper options can be pronounced.
Elsewhere, most towns have small hotels that have survived from communist days and have been somewhat done up. Most hotels these days are totally nonsmoking or at least offer nonsmoking rooms.
On arriving at your hotel, you’ll be asked to present your passport and fill in a short identity form.
Camping grounds (popas turistic) are rare. The good news is that wild camping is normally allowed unless expressly prohibited.
To supplement a lack of hotels in outlying areas, many municipalities are turning to homestays and privately run pensions. Moldova Holiday(www.moldovaholiday.travel) keeps an up-to-date list.
ESSENTIAL FOOD & DRINK
Moldovan cooking bears a strong resemblance to Romanian food across the border. The emphasis is on traditional recipes and farm-fresh ingredients rather than sophisticated preparation techniques.
Muşchi de vacă/porc/miel A cutlet of beef/pork/lamb.
Piept de pui The ubiquitous chicken breast.
Mămăligă Cornmeal mush with a consistency between porridge and bread that accompanies many dishes.
Brânză Moldova's most common cheese is a slightly salty-sour sheep's milk product that often comes grated. Put it on mămăligă.
Sarma Cabbage-wrapped minced meat or pilau rice packages, similar to Turkish dolma or Russian goluptsy.
Wine Look for bottles from quality local wineries like Cricova, Château Vartely and Purcari, among many others.
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