The joke 'If it's baroque, don't fix it' is a perfect maxim for Salzburg; the tranquil Old Town burrowed below steep hills looks much as it did when Mozart lived here 250 years ago.
A Unesco World Heritage Site, Salzburg’s overwhelmingly baroque old town is entrancing both at ground level and from Hohensalzburg fortress high above. Across the fast-flowing Salzach River rests Schloss Mirabell, surrounded by gorgeous manicured gardens.
If this doesn't whet your appetite, then bypass the grandeur and head straight for kitsch-country by joining a tour of The Sound of Music film locations.
DomCATHEDRAL
Gracefully crowned by a bulbous copper dome and twin spires, the Dom stands out as a masterpiece of baroque art. Bronze portals symbolising faith, hope and charity lead into the cathedral. In the nave, intricate stucco and Arsenio Mascagni’s ceiling frescoes recounting the Passion of Christ guide the eye to the polychrome dome.
DommuseumMUSEUM
The Dommuseum is a treasure trove of sacred art. A visit whisks you past a cabinet of Renaissance curiosities crammed with crystals, coral and oddities such as armadillos and pufferfish, through rooms showcasing gem-encrusted monstrances, stained glass and altarpieces, and into theLong Gallery, which is graced with 17th- and 18th-century paintings, including Paul Troger’s chiaroscuro Christ and Nicodemus (1739).
ResidenzPALACE
The crowning glory of Salzburg's new DomQuartier, the Residenz is where the prince-archbishops held court until Salzburg became part of the Habsburg Empire in the 19th century. An audioguide tour takes in the exuberant state rooms, lavishly adorned with tapestries, stucco and frescoes by Johann Michael Rottmayr. The 3rd floor is given over to the Residenzgalerie, where the focus is on Flemish and Dutch masters. Must-sees include Rubens’ Allegory on Emperor Charles V and Rembrandt’s chiaroscuro Old Woman Praying.
ResidenzplatzSQUARE
With its horse-drawn carriages, palace and street entertainers, this stately baroque square is the Salzburg of a thousand postcards. Its centrepiece is the Residenzbrunnen, an enormous marble fountain ringed by four water-spouting horses and topped by a conch-shell-bearing Triton.
Salzburg MuseumMUSEUM
Housed in the baroque Neue Residenz palace, this flagship museum takes you on a fascinating romp through Salzburg past and present. Ornate rooms showcase everything from Roman excavations to prince-archbishop portraits. There are free guided tours at 6pm every Thursday.
Erzabtei St PeterMONASTERY
A Frankish missionary named Rupert founded this abbey church and monastery in around 700, making it the oldest in the German-speaking world. The cemetery is home to the catacombs, cave-like chapels and crypts hewn out of the Mönchsberg cliff face.
Festung HohensalzburgFORT
Salzburg's most visible icon is this mighty 900-year-old cliff-top fortress, one of the biggest and best preserved in Europe. It's easy to spend half a day up here, roaming the ramparts for far-reaching views over the city's spires, the Salzach River and the mountains. The fortress is a steep 15-minute jaunt from the centre or a speedy ride in the glass Festungsbahn funicular
Stift NonnbergCONVENT
A short climb up the Nonnbergstiege staircase from Kaigasse or along Festungsgasse brings you to this Benedictine convent, founded 1300 years ago and made famous as the nunnery in The Sound of Music. You can visit the beautiful rib-vaulted church, but the rest of the convent is off-limits.
KollegienkircheCHURCH
Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach’s grandest baroque design is this late-17th-century university church, with a striking bowed facade. The high altar’s columns symbolise the Seven Pillars of Wisdom.
Mozarts GeburtshausMUSEUM
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Salzburg's most famous son, was born in this bright-yellow townhouse in 1756 and spent the first 17 years of his life here.
Mozart-WohnhausMUSEUM
Mozart's one-time residence showcases family portraits, documents and instruments. An audio guide accompanies your visit, serenading you with opera excerpts. Alongside family portraits and documents, you’ll find Mozart’s original fortepiano.
Museum der ModerneGALLERY
Straddling Mönchsberg’s cliffs, this contemporary glass-and-marble oblong of a gallery stands in stark contrast to the fortress. The gallery shows first-rate temporary exhibitions of 20th- and 21st-century art. There’s a free guided tour of the gallery at 6.30pm every Wednesday. The Mönchsberg Lift whizzes up to the gallery year-round.
Schloss MirabellPALACE
Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich had this splendid palace built for his mistress Salome Alt in 1606. Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt, of Schloss Belvedere fame, gave it a baroque makeover in 1721. The lavishMarmorsaal (Marble Hall), replete with stucco, marble and frescoes, is free to visit and provides a sublime backdrop for evening chamber concerts. For stellar fortress views, stroll the fountain-dotted gardens. The Sound of Music fans will naturally recognise the Pegasus statue and the steps where the von Trapps practised ‘Do-Re-Mi’.
AIR
Low-cost airlines including Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and EasyJet(www.easyjet.com) serve Salzburg airport, 5.5km west of the city centre.
BUS
Buses depart from just outside the Hauptbahnhof on Südtiroler Platz. For bus timetables and fares, see www.svv-info.at and www.postbus.at.
TRAIN
Fast trains leave frequently for Vienna (€51, 2½ hours) via Linz (€25, 1¼ hours). There is a two-hourly express service to Klagenfurt (€39, three hours). There are hourly trains to Innsbruck (€45, two hours).
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