Croatia : Cavtat


Without Cavtat, there’d be no Dubrovnik. Well, at least not the Dubrovnik we know and love. The inhabitants of this (originally Greek) settlement fled from the Slavs and set up shop in Dubrovnik, establishing the city in 614. But Cavtat is interesting in itself. A lot more ‘local’ than Dubrovnik – read: not flooded by tourists on a daily basis – it has charm and grace. Wrapped around a very pretty harbour that’s bordered by beaches and backed by a curtain of imposing hills, the setting is lovely.
History
Originally a Greek settlement called Epidaurus, Cavtat became a Roman colony around 228 BC and was later destroyed during the 7th-century Slavic invasions. Throughout most of the Middle Ages it was part of the Dubrovnik republic and shared the cultural and economic life of the capital city. Cavtat’s most famous personality was the painter Vlaho Bukovac (1855–1922), one of the foremost exponents of Croatian modernism.


Cavtat has some intriguing sights. The former Rector’s Palace – now the Baltazar Bogišić Collection (Obala Ante Starčevića 18; adult/concession 20/10KN; iconhoursgif 9am-1pm Mon-Sat) – houses the rich library belonging to 19th-century lawyer and historian Baltazar Bogišić, as well as lithographs and a small archaeological collection. One of the main draws is a painting by Vlaho Bukovac, depicting the Cavtat Carnival in the 19th century. Next door is the baroque St Nicholas Church (Crkva Svetog Nikole; admission 10KN; iconhoursgif 10am-1pm) with impressive wooden altars.
The birth house of Vlaho Bukovac (Rodna Kuća Vlahe Bukovca; Bukovca 5; admission 20KN; iconhoursgif 10am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, 4-8pm Sun) , Cavtat’s most famous son, is at the northern end of Obala Ante Starčevića. The early-19th-century architecture provides a fitting backdrop to the mementos and paintings of Croatia’s most renowned painter. Next door is the Monastery of Our Lady of the Snow (Samostan Snježne Gospe; Bukovca) , which is worth a look for some notable early Renaissance paintings.
A path leads uphill from the monastery to the cemetery, which contains the mausoleum (admission 7KN; iconhoursgif 10am-noon & 5-7pm Jul & Aug) of the Račić family, built by Ivan Meštrović. The elaborate monument reflects the sculptor’s preoccupation with religious and spiritual concerns.

categorysleepgifSleeping & Eating

For private accommodation try Atlas or one of the other travel agencies around the town centre.
You’ll find the harbourfront is lined with cafes and restaurants for casual inexpensive dining.
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