Croatia : Korčula Island


Korčula is rich in vineyards, olive groves, small villages and hamlets. The island’s dense woods led the original Greek settlers to call the island Korkyra Melaina (Black Korčula). Its main settlement, Korčula Town, is a gorgeous grid of marble streets and impressive architecture. The steep southern coast is dotted with quiet coves and small beaches, while the flatter northern shore is rich in natural harbours. Tradition is alive and kicking on Korčula, with age-old religious ceremonies, folk music and dances still being performed to an ever-growing influx of tourists. Oenophiles will adore sampling its wine, especially the dessert wine made from the grk grape cultivated around Lumbarda.
Korčula is separated from the Pelješac Peninsula by a narrow channel. It’s the sixth-largest Adriatic island, nearly 47km in length.
History
A Neolithic cave (Vela Špilja) located near Vela Luka, on the island’s western end, points to the existence of a prehistoric settlement, but it was the Greeks who first began spreading over the island somewhere around the 6th century BC. Their most important settlement was in the area of today’s Lumbarda around the 3rd century BC. Romans conquered Korčula in the 1st century, giving way to the Slavs in the 7th century. The island was conquered by Venice in AD 1000 and then passed under Hungarian rule. It was briefly part of the Republic of Dubrovnik before again falling to the Venetians in 1420, who remained until 1797. Under Venetian control the island became known for its stone, which was quarried and cut for export. Shipbuilding also flourished.
After the Napoleonic conquest of Dalmatia in 1797, Korčula’s fortunes followed those of the region, which changed hands among the French, Austro-Hungarians and English before becoming a part of Yugoslavia in 1921. Today Korčula is one of Croatia’s most prosperous islands, its historic capital drawing visitors in increasing numbers.


Korčula Town is a stunner. Ringed by imposing defences, this coastal citadel is dripping in history, with marble streets rich in Renaissance and Gothic architecture. Its fascinating fishbone layout was cleverly designed for the comfort and safety of its inhabitants: western streets were built straight in order to open the city to the refreshing summer maestral (strong, steady westerly wind), while the eastern streets were curved to minimise the force of the winter bura (cold, northeasterly wind). The town cradles a harbour, overlooked by round defensive towers and a compact cluster of red-roofed houses.
There are rustling palms all around and several beaches are an easy walk away. This being a favourite family island, you’ll need to get out of town to more remote beaches if you want some peace. Korčula Town is the best place to base yourself for day trips to Lumbarda, the islet of Badija, the town of Orebić on the Pelješac Peninsula and Mljet Island.
History
Although documents indicate that a walled town existed on this site in the 13th century, it wasn’t until the 15th century that the current city was built. Construction coincided with the apogee of stone-carving skills on the island, lending the buildings and streets a distinctive style. In the 16th century masons added decorative flourishes such as ornate columns and coats-of-arms to building facades, which gave a Renaissance look to the original Gothic core. People began building houses south of the old town in the 17th and 18th centuries as the threat of invasion diminished and they no longer needed to protect themselves behind walls. The narrow streets and stone houses in the ‘new’ suburb attracted merchants and artisans, and this is still where you’ll find most commercial activity.
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