Filled with wonderfully preserved baroque buildings, Eger (egg-air) is a jewelbox of a town. Learn about the Turkish conquest and defeat at its hilltop castle, climb an original minaret, hear an organ performance at the massive basilica and, best of all, go from cellar to cellar in the Valley of Beautiful Women, tasting the celebrated Bull's Blood wine from the region where it's made.
Eger CastleFORTRESS
Climb up cobbled Vár köz from Dózsa György tér to reach Eger Castle, erected in the 13th century after the Mongol invasion. Models and drawings in the István Dobó Museum, housed in the former Bishop’s Palace (1470), painlessly explain the history of the castle. The Eger Art Gallery on the northwestern side of the courtyard has works by Canaletto and Ceruti. Beneath the castle are casemates (kazamata) hewn from solid rock, which can be visited.
Eger BasilicaCHURCH
A highlight of the town’s amazing architecture is Eger Basilica. This neoclassical monolith was designed in 1836 by József Hild, the same architect who later worked on the cathedral at Esztergom. A good time to see the place is when the ornate altars and a soaring dome create interesting acoustics for the half-hour organ concert
MinaretISLAMIC
This 40m-high minaret, topped incongruously with a cross, is one of the few reminders of the Ottoman occupation of Eger. Nonclaustrophobes will brave the 97 narrow spiral steps to the top for the awesome views.
Valley of the Beautiful WomenWINE TASTING
(Szépasszony-völgy)
Wine tasting is popular in the wine cellars of this evocatively named valley. Try ruby-red Bull’s Blood or any of the whites: Leányka, Olaszrizling and Hárslevelű from nearby Debrő. The choice of wine cellars can be a bit daunting so walk around and have a look yourself. The valley is a little over 1km southwest across Rte 25 and off Király utca.
Turkish BathSPA
Nothing beats a soak and steam at this historic spa, which has a bath dating to 1617 at its core. A multimillion-forint renovation has added five pools, saunas, steam room and a hammam (Turkish bath). Various kinds of massage and treatments are also available.
BUS
From Eger, buses serve Kecskemét (3130Ft, 4½ hours, three daily) and Szeged (3950Ft, five hours, two daily). To get to Tokaj by bus, you have to go to Nyíregyháza (2520Ft, three hours, three daily) and catch another bus to Tokaj (650Ft, half-hour, three daily).
TRAIN
Up to eight direct trains a day head to Budapest's Keleti train station (2725Ft, two hours). You can reach Tokaj (3425Ft, two hours, hourly) with a change in Füzesabony.
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