Szeged (seh-ged) is a bustling border town, with a handful of historic sights that line the embankment along the Tisza River and a clutch of sumptuous Art Nouveau town palaces. Importantly, it’s also a big university town, which means lots of culture, lots of partying and an active festival scene that lasts throughout the year.
Dóm térSQUARE
'Cathedral Square’ contains Szeged’s most important buildings and monuments and is the centre of events during the annual summer Szeged Open-Air Festival (www.szegediszabadteri.hu). Lording above all else is the twin-towered Votive Church (Fogadalmi templom; www.szegedidom.hu ) a disproportionate brick monstrosity that was pledged after the 1879 flood but built from 1913 to 1930. Running along three sides of the square is the National Pantheon (Nemzeti Emlékcsarnok), with statues and reliefs of more than 100 Hungarian notables (almost 100% male).
New SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
The Art Nouveau New Synagogue, which was designed by Lipót Baumhorn in 1903, is the most beautiful Jewish house of worship in Hungary. It is still in use, though the community has dwindled from 8000 before WWII to about 50 people now. Dominating the enormous blue-and-gold interior is the cupola, decorated with stars and flowers (representing infinity and faith) and appearing to float skyward.
Reök PalaceARCHITECTURE
(Reök Palota )
The Reök Palace is a mind-blowing green-and-lilac Art Nouveau structure built in 1907 that looks like an aquarium decoration. It’s been polished up to its original lustre and now hosts regular photography and visual arts exhibitions.
BUS
Buses run to Kecskemét (1680Ft, 1¾ hours, nine daily) and Pécs (3410Ft, 3¼ hours, four daily). You can also get to the Serbian city of Subotica (1200Ft, 1½ hours) up to four times a day by bus.
TRAIN
Szeged is on the main rail line to Budapest's Nyugati train station (3705Ft, 2½ hours, half-hourly); many trains also stop halfway along in Kecskemét (2375Ft, 1¼ hours).
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