Peja (known as Peć in Serbian) is Kosovo's third-largest city and one flanked by sites vital to Orthodox Serbians. With a Turkish-style bazaar at its heart and the dramatic but increasingly accessible Rugova Mountains all around it, it's a diverse and progressive place that's fast becoming Kosovo's tourism hub.
Patriachate of PećMONASTERY
This church and monastery complex are a slice of Serbian Orthodoxy that has existed here since the late 13th century. Following the war, the buildings are guarded by NATO's Kosovo Force (KFOR) and you will need to hand in your passport for the duration of your visit. From the food stands around the main square, walk along Lekë Dukagjini with the river on your left for 15 minutes until you reach the monastery walls.
Cheese MarketMARKET
The town's bustling bazaar makes you feel like you've turned left into İstanbul. Farmers gather here on Saturday with wooden barrels of goat's cheese, so follow your nose.
Peja has established itself as the country's tourism hub and there's an impressive number of activities on offer in the nearby Rugova Mountains, including rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, hiking and white-water rafting.
Rugova ExperienceADVENTURE TOUR
This excellent, locally run company is championing the Rugova region for hikers and cultural tourists. It organises homestays in mountain villages, runs very good trekking tours, enjoys great local access and works with English-speaking guides.
Outdoor KosovoADVENTURE TOURS
An adventure tourism company that specialises in rock climbing, caving, skiing, camping, hiking and mountain biking. English is spoken.
BUS
The town's bus station can be found on Rr Adem Jashari, a short walk from the town centre. Frequent buses run to Pristina (€5, 90 minutes, every 20 minutes) and Prizren (€4, 80 minutes, hourly). International buses link Peja with Ulclinj (€16, 10am and 8.30pm, 10 hours) and Podgorica in Montenegro (€15, 10am, seven hours).
TRAIN
Trains depart Peja for Pristina at 5.30am and 11.10am (two hours) and depart Pristina for Peja at 7.22am and 4.41pm (two hours). The train station is in the centre of town: follow Rr Emrush Miftari away from the Hotel Dukagjini for about five minutes.
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