Pristina (pronounced 'prish-tee-na') is a city changing fast and one that feels full of optimism and potential, even if its traffic-clogged streets and mismatched architectural styles don't make it an obviously attractive place. Far more a provincial town than great city, Pristina makes for an unlikely national capital, and yet feels more cosmopolitan than the capitals of many larger Balkan nations due to the number of foreigners working here: the UN and EU both have large presences here and the city feels rich and more sophisticated as a result.
Ethnographic MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING
This wonderful annex of the Museum of Kosovo is housed in two beautifully preserved Ottoman houses enclosed in a large walled garden. The clued-up, super-keen English-speaking staff will give you a fascinating tour of both properties and point out the various unique pieces of clothing, weapons, jewellery and household goods on display in each. There's no better introduction to Kosovar culture to be had.
Museum of KosovoMUSEUM
(Sheshi Adam Jashari)
Following a full renovation, Pristina's main museum is now open again and has displays spread over three floors. On the 2nd floor you'll find an ethnological exhibit, entirely unlabelled but with some superb examples of wood carving. The second floor contains a poor selection of paintings from various eras, while the top floor is an unbalanced display on the Kosovan War and the birth of the nation.
Carshi MosqueMOSQUE
(Agim Ramadani)
Fronting the Kosovo Museum is this 15th-century mosque.
Sultan Mehmet Fatih MosqueMOSQUE
(Big Mosque)
The 'Big Mosque' was built by its namesake around 1461, converted to a Catholic church during the Austro-Hungarian era and refurbished again during WWII.
Jashar Pasha MosqueMOSQUE
( Rr Ylfete Humolli)
This mosque has vibrant interiors that exemplify Turkish baroque style.
National LibraryLIBRARY
Easily one of Pristina's most notable buildings, the National Library, completed in 1982 by Croatian Andrija Mutnjakovic, must be seen to be believed (think gelatinous eggs wearing armour).
National Gallery of KosovoART GALLERY
This excellent space takes a thoroughly contemporary stance on Kosovan art (don't expect to see paintings from throughout the country's history here) and is always worth a look around.
Clock TowerLANDMARK
(Sahat Kulla)
This 26m high tower dates from the 19th century and was central to the bazaar area, as it dictated when stalls should close for prayers. Following damage in the war, it now operates on electricity. The Great Hamamnearby is being renovated.
AIR
There is currently no public transport from Pristina International Airport(www.airportpristina.com), so you'll have to get a taxi into the city. Taxis charge €25 for the 20-minute, 18km trip to the city centre.
BUS
The bus station (Stacioni i Autobusëve) is 2km southwest of the centre off Bul Bil Klinton. Taxis to the centre should cost €2. International buses from Pristina include Serbia's Belgrade (€20, 11pm daily, six hours) and Novi Pazar (€5, 10am daily, three hours); Sarajevo (Bosnia and Hercegovina) via Novi Pazar (€23, 4pm daily); Tirana, Albania (€10, daily, five hours), Skopje, Macedonia (€5, every 30 minutes from 5.30am to 5pm, 1½ hours); and Podgorica, Montenegro (€15, three daily at 5.45pm, 7pm and 7.30pm, seven hours).
TRAIN
Trains run from Pristina to Peja (€3, two daily at 8.01am and 4.41pm, two hours) and, internationally, to Skopje in Macedonia (€4, 7.22am daily, three hours).
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