Moldova : Tiraspol


The 'capital' of Transdniestr is also, officially at least, the second-largest city in Moldova. But don't expect it to be anything like the chaotic Moldovan capital: here time seems to have stood still since the end of the Soviet Union. Eerily quiet streets, flower beds tended with military precision and old-school Soviet everything from street signs to litter-free parks named after communist grandees, Tiraspol (from the Greek, meaning 'town on the Nistru') will be one of the strangest places you'll ever visit.
Tiraspol National United MuseumMUSEUM
The closest thing to a local history museum, it features an exhibit focusing on poet Nikolai Zelinsky, who founded the first Soviet school of chemistry. Opposite is the Presidential Palace, from where President Yevgeny Shevchuk rules the region. Loitering and/or photography here is likely to end in questioning and a guard-escorted trip off the property.
War MemorialMEMORIAL
At the western end of ul 25 Oktober stands a Soviet armoured tank from which the Transdniestran flag flies. Behind is the War Memorial with itsTomb of the Unknown Soldier, flanked by an eternal flame in memory of those who died on 3 March 1992 during the first outbreak of fighting. On weekends, it's covered in flowers.
Kvint FactoryBRANDY FACTORY
Since 1897, Kvint has been making some of Moldova's finest brandies. Purchase a bottle of some of Europe's best-value cognac (starting at under 30 roubles) near the entrance to the plant or at one of several Kvint shops around town. Tasting tours, starting at around 180 roubles per person, must be booked in advance and normally include food.
Transnistria TourTRAVEL AGENCY
Highly recommended company that offers a full range of tours and travel services to foreign visitors. Its excellent English-language website is a great place to start planning your trip. Tours range in theme from Soviet monuments and brandy to football and ecology and start at about 300 roubles per person per day.
BUS
You can only pay for bus tickets with local currency, but there are change facilities at the combined bus and train station. Buy tickets inside the station. From Tiraspol there are eight daily buses to Odesa in Ukraine (50 roubles, three hours). Buses/maxitaxis go to Chişinău (34 roubles) nearly every half-hour from 5am to 6pm. Trolleybus 19 (2.50 roubles) and quicker maxitaxis 19 and 20 (3 roubles) cross the bridge over the Dniestr to Bendery.
TRAIN
There's a useful daily Chişinău to Odesa train, which calls at Tiraspol at 9.20am daily. Tickets to Odesa cost 100 roubles and the journey takes two hours. The train makes the return journey to Chişinău each evening, calling at Tiraspol at 7.20pm.
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