Imagine a place with sapphire beaches as spectacular as Croatia’s, rugged peaks as dramatic as Switzerland’s, canyons nearly as deep as Colorado’s, palazzi as elegant as Venice’s and towns as old as Greece’s. Then wrap it up in a Mediterranean climate and squish it into an area two-thirds the size of Wales, and you start to get a picture of Montenegro.
More adventurous travellers can easily sidestep the peak-season hordes on the coast by heading to the rugged mountains of the north. This is, after all, a country where wolves and bears still lurk in forgotten corners.
Montenegro, Crna Gora (Црна Гора), Black Mountain: the name itself conjures up romance and drama. There are plenty of both on offer as you explore this perfumed land, bathed in the scent of wild herbs, conifers and Mediterranean blossoms. Yes, it really is as magical as it sounds.
COUNTRY FACTS
Area 13,812 sq km
Capital Podgorica
Country Code 382
Currency Euro (€)
Emergency ambulance 124, fire 123, police 122
Language Montenegrin
Money ATMs in larger towns
Population 779,000
Visas None for citizens of EU, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand and many other countries
ACCOMMODATION
Private accommodation (rooms and apartments for rent) and hotels form the bulk of the sleeping options, although there are some hostels in the more touristy areas. Camping grounds operate in summer and some of the mountainous areas have cabin accommodation in 'eco villages' or mountain huts.
In the peak summer season, some places require minimum stays (three days to a week). Many establishments on the coast close during winter. An additional tourist tax (usually less than €1 per night) is added to the rate for all accommodation types.
ESSENTIAL FOOD & DRINK
Loosen your belt; you're in for a treat. By default, most Montenegrin food is local, fresh and organic, and hence very seasonal. The food on the coast is virtually indistinguishable from Dalmatian cuisine: lots of grilled seafood, garlic, olive oil and Italian dishes. Inland it's much more meaty and Serbian-influenced. The village of Njeguši in the Montenegrin heartland is famous for its pršut (prosciutto, air-dried ham) and cheese. Anything with Njeguški in its name is going to be a true Montenegrin dish and stuffed with these goodies.
Eating in Montenegro can be a trial for vegetarians and almost impossible for vegans. Pasta, pizza and salad are the best fallback options.
Here are some local favourites:
Riblja čorba Fish soup, a staple of the coast.
Crni rižoto Black risotto, coloured and flavoured with squid ink.
Lignje na žaru Grilled squid, sometimes stuffed (punjene) with cheese and smoke-dried ham.
Jagnjetina ispod sača Lamb cooked (often with potatoes) under a metal lid covered with hot coals.
Rakija Domestic brandy, made from nearly anything. The local favourite is grape-based loza.
Vranac & Krstač The most famous indigenous red and white wine varietals (respectively).
Bus
There's a well-developed bus network linking Montenegro with major cities in the neighbouring countries, including Dubrovnik, Sarajevo, Belgrade, Priština and Shkodra.
Car & Motorcycle
Vehicles need Green Card insurance or insurance must be bought at the border.
Train
At lease one train heads between Bar and Belgrade daily (€21, 17 hours); see www.zpcg.me for details.
SEA
Montenegro Lines ( www.montenegrolines.net) operates car ferries between Bar and the Italian port of Bari.
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