Cluj-Napoca, shortened to 'Cluj' in conversation, isn't as picturesque as its Saxon neighbours, but it's famed for cafes, clubs and student life. Even outside the clubs, Cluj is one of Romania's most energised and welcoming cities.
St Michael’s ChurchCHURCH
The vast 14th-century St Michael’s Church dominates Piaţa Unirii. The neo-Gothic tower (1859) topping the Gothic hall church creates a great landmark and the church is considered to be one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Romania. Daily services are in Hungarian and Romanian, and evening organ concerts are often held.
The Pharmacy History CollectionMUSEUM
This tiny museum near the main square can be hit or miss, depending on whether there's an English-speaking guide on hand. Tours are led by a 'pharmacist' in a white lab coat, who points like a game-show model towards (seemingly ho-hum) glass cases of ground mummy dust, medieval alchemist symbols and 18th-century aphrodisiacs.
National Art MuseumMUSEUM
Admittedly a sleepy affair, the museum houses mainly Romanian works from the 19th and 20th centuries – though there are several excellent pieces by Romanian impressionist and war painter Nicolae Grigorescu. The highlight is the setting: the baroque town palace of the noble Bánffy family, which hosted Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph I on two occasions, in 1852 and 1887.
Fabrica de PensuleART GALLERY
Cluj takes contemporary art seriously and the centre of the action is Fabrica de Pensule, a rehabilitated former paintbrush factory on the outskirts of town (4km east of Piaţa Unirii). The factory house six art galleries, including renowned painter Adrian Ghenie's Plan B. There are stages for concerts, theatre performances and happenings; check the website. Arrange free guided tours in advance by phone or email.
BUS
Buses generally leave from Autogara 2 (Autogara Beta; www.autogari.ro ), 300m northwest of the train station. Popular destinations include Braşov (60 lei, five hours, two daily), Bucharest (90 lei, eight hours, three daily) and Sibiu (34 lei, 3½ hours, eight daily).
TRAIN
Cluj has decent train connections around the country. Sample destinations include two daily direct trains to Bucharest (94 lei, 10 hours), three to Braşov (76 lei, seven hours) and two to Sighişoara (62 lei, four hours). Change at Teiuș or Mediaș for Sibiu (53 lei, five hours).
The train station ( www.cfrcalatori.ro ) is 1km north of the centre, a straight shot along Str Horea (10-minute walk). Buy tickets at the station or in town at the Agenţia de Voiaj CFR ( www.cfrcalatori.ro).
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