Romania : Sibiu

Instantly charming, with a maze of cobbled streets and baroque squares, Romania's cultural first lady has a magic all its own. Composers Franz Liszt and Johann Strauss were drawn here in the 19th century, and in 2007 Sibiu became the first Romanian city to be named an EU Capital of Culture. Most months have myriad things going on, from festivals and exhibitions to theatre and opera. There are plenty of cafes for people-watching in the three main squares.
Brukenthal MuseumMUSEUM
The most important art museum in this part of the country features separate galleries dedicated to European (1st floor) and Romanian (2nd floor) art. The European collection is heavy on Dutch and German painters, and features at least one masterpiece: Pieter Brueghel the Younger's The Massacre of Innocents. The Romanian collection is rich in portraits and landscapes.
Biserica EvanghelicăCHURCH
The Gothic church, built from 1300 to 1520, was closed and covered in scaffolding during our research due to long-term renovation. The work should be complete by 2016. Once the church reopens, visitors will again be able to admire the 1772 organ, featuring a staggering 6002 pipes, or climb the church tower.
Pharmaceutical MuseumMUSEUM
Housed in the Piaţa Mică pharmacy (opened in 1600), the Pharmaceutical Museum is a three-room collection packed with pills and powders, old microscopes and scary medical instruments. Some exhibits highlight Samuel Hahnemann, a founder of homeopathy in the 1770s.
Astra Museum of Traditional Folk CivilisationMUSEUM
Five kilometres from the centre, this sprawling open-air museum has a dazzling 120 traditional dwellings, mills and churches brought from around the country and set among two small lakes and a tiny zoological garden. Many are signed in English, with maps showing where the structures came from. There’s also a nice gift shop and restaurant with creekside bench seats.
BUS
The bus station (Autogara Sibiu; www.autogari.ro) is opposite the train station. Bus and maxitaxi services include Braşov (28 lei, 2½ hours, two daily), Bucharest (42 lei, 5½ hours, six daily), Cluj-Napoca (32 lei, 3½ hours, several daily) and Timişoara (55 lei, six hours, three daily).
TRAIN
There are five daily direct trains to Braşov (46 lei, 2½ hours), and two trains to Bucharest (75 lei, six hours) and Timişoara (75 lei, six hours). To get to/from Cluj-Napoca (54 lei, four hours), you’ll usually change at Copşa Mică or Mediaş (about nine or 10 trains daily).
The train station (Gara Sibiu;www.cfrcalatori.ro) is 2km east of the centre, about 20 minutes on foot.
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