Niš is a lively city of curious contrasts, where Roma in horse-drawn carriages trot alongside new cars, and posh cocktails are sipped in antiquated alleyways. Niš was settled in pre-Roman times and flourished during the time of local-boy-made-good Emperor Constantine (AD 280–337).
Niš FortressFORTRESS
(Niška tvrđava; Jadranska; h24hr)
While its current incarnation was built by the Turks in the 18th century, there have been forts on this site since ancient Roman times. Today it's a sprawling recreational area with restaurants, cafes and market stalls. It hosts the Nišville International Jazz Festival (www.nisville.com) each August and Nišomnia (www.facebook.com/festivalnisomnia), featuring rock and electro acts, in September. The city's main pedestrian boulevard, Obrenovićeva, stretches before the citadel.
Tower of SkullsMONUMENT
(Ćele Kula; Bul Zoran Ðinđić; adult/child 150/130DIN; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat-Sun)
With Serbian defeat imminent at the 1809 Battle of Čegar, the Duke of Resava kamikazeed towards the Turkish defences, firing at their gunpowder stores, killing himself, 4000 of his men, and 10,000 Turks. The Turks triumphed regardless, and to deter future acts of rebellion, they beheaded, scalped and embedded in this tower the skulls of the dead Serbs. Only 58 of the initial 952 skulls remain. Contrary to Turkish intention, the tower serves as a proud monument to Serbian resistance.
Get there on any bus marked 'Niška Banja' from the stop opposite the Ambassador Hotel: ask to be let out at Ćele Kula.
Red Cross Concentration CampMUSEUM
One of the best-preserved Nazi camps in Europe, the deceptively named Red Cross held about 30,000 Serbs, Roma, Jews and Partisans during the German occupation of Serbia (1941–45). Harrowing displays tell their stories, and those of the prisoners who attempted to flee in the biggest ever breakout from a concentration camp. A short walk north of the Niš bus station.
Tourist Organisation of NišTOURIST INFORMATION
Helpful info within the citadel gates.
Getting There & Away
The bus station (Bul 12 Februar) behind the fortress has frequent services to Belgrade (1380DIN, three hours) and Brus (710DIN, 1½ hours) for Kopaonik, and three daily to Novi Pazar (1120DIN, four hours).
From the train station (Dimitrija Tucovića), there are seven trains to Belgrade (784DIN, 4½ hours) and two to Sofia (730DIN, five hours).
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