Going strong over two decades as an independent state after the breakup of Czechoslovakia, Slovakia, Europe's most castellated country, is a bastion of untrammelled wildernesses, where some of the continent's densest forest coverage gives way to dramatic fortresses and craggy mountains harbouring outstanding hiking. It savours wine over beer and, in its tradition-steeped hinterland, cradles an entrancing folk culture most European nations have lost.
Slovakia's small size is possibly its biggest attraction. You can traipse woodsy waterfall-filled gorges one day and yodel from 2500m-plus peaks the next.
Dinky capital Bratislava is awash with quirky museums and backed by thick forests. But don't leave without heading east, where fortresses tower over tradition-rich medieval towns such as Levoča or Bardejov and hiking trails lace the hills. Down a slivovica (firewater-like plum brandy) and drink a toast for us – nazdravie!
COUNTRY FACTS
Area 49,035 sq km
Capital Bratislava
Country Code 00421
Currency euro (€)
Emergency general 112, fire 150,ambulance 155, police 158
Language Slovak
Money ATMs widely available in cities
Population 5.4 million
Visas Not required for most visitors staying less than 90 days
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Towns all have efficient bus systems; most villages have surprisingly good services. Bratislava and Košice have trams and trolleybuses; the High Tatras also has an efficient electric railway.
Public transport generally operates from 4.30am to 11.30pm daily.
City transport tickets are good for all local buses, trams and trolleybuses. Buy at newsstands and validate on board or risk serious fines (this is not a scam).
TRAIN
Train is the way to travel in Slovakia; most tourist destinations are off the main Bratislava–Košice line. No online reservations: ticket machines are also rare. Reserve at train station offices. Visit www.cp.atlas.sk for up-to-date schedules.
AIR
Czech Airlines offers the only domestic air service: weekdays only, between Bratislava and Košice.
BICYCLE
Roads are often narrow and potholed, and in towns cobblestones and tram tracks can prove dangerous for bike riders. Bike rental is uncommon outside mountain resorts. The cost of transporting a bike by rail is usually 10% of the train ticket.
BUS
Read timetables carefully; different schedules apply for weekends and holidays (although these are still well serviced). You can find up-to-date schedules online at www.cp.atlas.sk. The main national bus companies in Slovakia are Slovenská Autobusová Doprava (SAD) and Slovak Lines (www.slovaklines.sk).
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