East Slovakia's industrial powerhouse has cosmopolitan clout and a buoyant cultural scene plonking it firmly on Europe's city-break map, fiercely independent of Bratislava. As 2013's European Capital of Culture, Košice has accordingly initiated a new string of attractions including major arts installations in a combination of impressively revamped buildings, and eclectic events to enliven city streets.
Košice, for centuries the eastern stronghold of the Hungarian Kingdom, was always a medieval gem. New enhancements build on an arts scene already home to the paintings of Andy Warhol and one of Europe's loveliest theatres. Its vast oval-shaped námestie (central square) contains the largest collection of historical monuments in Slovakia, enlivened by myriad buzzing cafes and restaurants.
It's base-of-choice, too, for forays deeper into the tradition-seeped east. From here, top trips include Unesco-listed medieval Bardejov, with Slovakia's most beautiful town square, and the surrounding area's stunning wooden churches, reflecting a Carpatho-Rusyn heritage shared with neighbouring parts of Ukraine and Poland.
Hlavné NámSQUARE
Almost all of the sights are in or around the town's long plaza-like main square, Hlavná. Landscaped flowerbeds surround the central musical fountain , across from the 1899 State Theatre. Look for the turn-of-the-20th-century, art nouveau Hotel Slávia at No 63. Shire Hall (1779), at No 27, is where the Košice Government Program was proclaimed in 1945; today there's a minor art gallery inside.
Cathedral of St ElizabethCHURCH
Dark, brooding 14th-century Cathedral of St Elizabeth wins the prize for the sight most likely to grace your Košice postcard home. You can't miss Europe's easternmost (and perhaps mightiest) Gothic cathedral, which dominates the square. Below the church, a crypt contains the tomb of Duke Ferenc Rákóczi, who was exiled to Turkey after the failed 18th-century Hungarian revolt against Austria.
Don't forget to ascend the 160 narrow, circular stone steps up the church's vertigo-inducing tower for city views. Climbing the royal staircase as the monarchs once did provides an interior perspective: note the rare interlocking flights of steps. Just to the south, the 14th-century St Michael's Chapel (Kaplinka sv Michala ) has sporadic entry hours.
Lower Gate Underground MuseumMUSEUM
The underground remains of medieval Košice – lower gate, defence chambers, fortifications and waterways dating from the 13th to 15th centuries – were only uncovered during construction work in 1996. Get lost in the mazelike passages of the archaeological excavations at the south end of the square.
East Slovak MuseumMUSEUM
Hidden treasure can be found at the East Slovak Museum. Workers found the secret stash of 2920 gold coins, dating from the 15th to 18th centuries, while renovating a house on Hlavná in 1935. There's a romp through various aspects of regional history, too, showcased through a former prison and a metal foundry. In the museum yard there's a relocated 1741 wooden church.
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