With rumbling waterfalls, sheer gorges and dense forests, Slovenský Raj lives up to the name of 'Slovak Paradise'. A few easier trails exist, but the one-way ladder-and-chain ascents make this a national park for the passionately outdoorsy. You cling to metal rungs headed up a precipice while an icy waterfall sprays you from a metre away: pure exhilaration.
The nearest major town is uninspiring Spišská Nová Ves, 23km southeast of Poprad. Of the three trailhead resort villages, pretty Čingov, 5km west of Spišská Nová Ves, is our favourite. Podlesok (16km southwest of Poprad), has good accommodation. About 50km south, Dedinky is more of a regular village with a pub and supermarket fronting a lake.
Slovenský Raj National ParkPARK
The national park has numerous trails that include one-way roklina(gorge) sections and take at least half a day. Slovenský Raj is most famous for its sometimes hair-raising ladder-and-chain ascents – paths where you're clinging to a waterfall-splashed rock face on creaky metal supports.
From Čingov a green trail leads up Hornád River Gorge an hour toTomašovský výhľad, a rocky outcropping and overlook that is a good short-hike destination. Or continue to the green, one-way, technically aided Kláštorisko Gorge trail, allowing at least eight hours for the circuit. You can also reach the Kláštorisko Gorge ascent from Podlesok (six hours). There is accommodation available at Kláštorisko Chata.
Another excellent alternative from Podlesok is to hike on the six- to seven-hour circuit up the dramatic, ladder and technical-assist Suchá Belá Gorge, then east to Kláštorisko Chata, where you'll find a reconstructed 13th-century monastery, on yellow then red trails. From there, take the blue trail down to the Hornád River, then follow the river gorge upstream to return to Podlesok.
One of the shortest, dramatic, technical-assist hikes starts at Biele Vody (15 minutes northeast of Dedinky via the red trail) and follows the green trail up Zejmarská Gorge. The physically fit can clamber up in 50 minutes. To get back, you can follow the green trail down to Dedinky, or there's a chairlift that works sporadically.
The best viewpoint is at Medvedia Hlava in the east of the park. Slovenský Raj's forested gorges lie in one direction, the jagged teeth of the High Tatras in the other. Access it via a 4½ hour hike from Spisšká Nová Ves tourist information centre.
Dobšinská Ice CaveCAVE
The fanciful frozen formations in this Unesco-noted ice cave are more dazzling in early June than September. A 15-minute hike leads up from the settlement of Dobšinská ľadová jaskyňa to where tours begin every hour or so.
During low season especially, you may consider hiring a car in Košice; connections to the park can be a chore. You'll have to transfer at least once, usually in Spišská Nová Ves.
BUS
Buses travel more infrequently on weekends, most often in July and August. No buses run directly between trailhead villages. Carefully check schedules at www.cp.atlas.sk.
Buses run from Slovenský Raj's transport hub of Spisška Nová Ves to Poprad (€1.70, 40 minutes, every one to two hours). Other buses run to Levoča (€0.90, 20 minutes, hourly), Čingov (€0.60, 15 minutes, two to four direct Monday to Friday, one direct Saturday), Hrabušice (for Podlesok; €1.10, 30 minutes, nine daily Monday to Friday, four Saturday) and Dedinky (€2.50, 80 minutes, four direct Monday to Saturday).
TRAIN
Trains run from Spisška Nová Ves to Poprad (€1.50, 20 minutes, at least hourly) and Košice (€4, one hour, at least hourly). The train station is 1½ blocks east of the bus station.
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