If you've done time in any other Ukrainian region, Lviv will come as a shock. Mysterious and architecturally lovely, this Unesco World Heritage–listed city is the country's least Soviet and exudes the same Central European charm as pre-tourism Prague or Kraków once did. Its quaint cobbles, aromatic coffeehouses and rattling trams feel a continent away from the war-torn badlands of Ukraine's east. It's also a place where the candle of Ukrainian national identity burns brightest.
Lychakiv CemeteryCEMETERY
Don't leave town until you've seen this amazing cemetery only a short ride on tram 7 from the centre. This is the Père Lachaise of Eastern Europe, with the same sort of overgrown grounds and Gothic aura as the famous Parisian necropolis (but containing less-well-known people). Laid out in the late 18th century, it's packed full of west Ukraine's great and good. Pride of place goes to the grave of revered nationalist poet Ivan Franko.
Ploshcha RynokSQUARE
Lviv was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998, and this old market square lies at its heart. The square was progressively rebuilt after a major fire in the early 16th century destroyed the original. The 19th-century Ratusha (Town Hall) stands in the middle of the plaza, with fountains featuring Greek gods at each of its corners. Vista junkies can climb the 65m-high neo-Renaissance tower . The ticket booth is on the 4th floor.
Latin CathedralCATHEDRAL
With various parts dating from between 1370 and 1480, this working cathedral is one of Lviv’s most impressive churches. The exterior is most definitely Gothic while the heavily gilded interior, one of the city’s highlights, has a more baroque feel with colourfully wreathed pillars hoisting frescoed vaulting and mysterious side chapels glowing in candlelit half light. Services are in four languages including English.
AIR
Around 7km southwest of the centre, Lviv's airport (LWO;www.airport.lviv.ua) has flights to Kyiv (two daily). Book through Kiy Avia (www.kiyavia.com).
There are international flights to/from Vienna, Munich, Warsaw, İstanbul, Venice, Naples, Milan and Moscow.
BUS
Take trolleybus 25 to the main bus station (Holovny Avtovokzal; vul Stryska)8km south of the centre.
There are overnight services to Kyiv (210uah, nine hours, four daily) and daytime buses to Kamyanets-Podilsky (130uah, seven hours, two or three daily).
TRAIN
The quickest way to Kyiv is on the Intercity+ express (260uah, five hours, one daily) departing early morning. There are also cheaper overnight and daytime passenger trains (200uah to 250uah, eight to 10 hours).
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