Sometimes chaotic central Asia, other times quaint central Europe, Kyiv (many agree) is the former USSR's most pleasant metropolis. A pretty spot amid the wooded hills hemming the wide River Dnipro, this eclectic capital has preserved the legacy of its former possessors, from Viking chieftains to post-Soviet dictators. Despite its starring role in the 2014 Maidan Revolution which toppled the last of those rulers, only the very centre around Maidan Nezalezhnosti bears any scars, the rest of the city untouched by the tumultuous events that put the geopolitical spotlight firmly on Ukraine.
Kyevo-Pecherska LavraMONASTERY
Tourists and Orthodox pilgrims alike flock to the Lavra. It's easy to see why the tourists come. Set on 28 hectares of grassy hills above the Dnipro River, the monastery's tight cluster of gold-domed churches is a feast for the eyes, the hoard of Scythian gold rivals that of the Hermitage in St Petersburg, and the underground labyrinths lined with mummified monks are exotic and intriguing.
St Sophia's CathedralCHURCH
The interior is the most astounding aspect of Kyiv's oldest standing church, St Sophia's Cathedral. Many of the mosaics and frescoes are original, dating back to 1017–31, when the cathedral was built to celebrate Prince Yaroslav's victory in protecting Kyiv from the Pechenegs (Tribal Raiders). While equally attractive, the building's gold domes and 76m-tall wedding-cake bell tower are 18th-century baroque additions.
Andriyivsky UzvizSTREET
According to legend a man walked up the hill, erected a cross and prophesied: 'A great city will stand on this spot'. That man was the Apostle Andrew, hence the name of Kyiv's quaintest thoroughfare, a steep cobbled street that winds its way up from Kontraktova pl to vul Volodymyrska. Its vague Montparnasse feel has attracted Ukraine's wealthy, but despite gentrification it still retains an atmosphere unique for Kyiv as well as its multiple stalls selling junk souvenirs and dubious art.
AIR
Most international flights use Boryspil International Airport, 35km east of the city. Some domestic airlines and Wizzair use Zhulyany airport ( www.airport.kiev.ua), 7km southwest of the centre. There's at least one flight a day to all regional capitals and international flights serve many European cities.
BUS
The Central Bus Station (Tsentralny Avtovokzal) is one stop from Lybidska metro station on trolleybus 1 or 12. Only a couple of overnight coaches (eight hours, 250uah) make the Lviv run.
TRAIN
Kyiv's train station handles domestic services as well as international trains to Moscow, Warsaw, Berlin, Chișinău (Moldova) and Bucharest.
The quickest way to Lviv is on the Intercity+ express (260uah, five hours, one daily) which leaves early evening. Cheaper overnight passenger trains and a few daytime services (200uah to 250uah, eight to 10 hours) are more popular.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A taxi to the city centre costs around 250uah.
SkyBus (50uah, 45 minutes) departs round the clock from behind the train station's South Terminal every 20 to 40 minutes.
Trolleybus 22 runs to Zhulyany airport from Shulyavska metro station.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Kyiv's metro runs between around 6am and midnight. Plastic tokens (zhetony; 2uah) are sold at windows and dispensers at stations.
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