Big, diverse and largely undiscovered, Ukraine (Україна) is one of Europe’s last genuine travel frontiers, a poor nation rich in colour-splashed tradition, off-the-map travel experiences and warm-hearted people. And with the country hitting the headlines recently for all the wrong reasons, those locals are perhaps happier than ever to see foreign visitors.
‘Ukraine’ means ‘land on the edge’, an apt title for this slab of Eurasia in many ways. This is the Slavic hinterland on Europe’s periphery, just over two decades into a very troubled independence and dogged by conflict with neighbouring Russia. But it’s a country whose peoples can pull together when need arises, as the recent Maidan Revolution and nationwide war effort has shown.
Most visitors head for the eclectic capital Kyiv, but architecturally rich Lviv is Ukraine's true big hope for tourism and both are well away from the conflict zones. However, while Russia continues to occupy Crimea, beach fun is off for the foreseeable future.
COUNTRY FACTS
Area 603,628 sq km
Capital Kyiv
Country Code 380
Currency Hryvnya (uah)
Emergency 112
Language Ukrainian, Russian
Money ATMs common; credit cards widely accepted
Population 44.6 million
Visas Not required for EU, UK, US and Canadian citizens for stays of up to 90 days
AIR
Flying is an expensive way of getting around. Overnight train is cheaper and more reliable.
BUS
Buses serve every city and small town, but are best for short trips (three hours or less). Tickets resembling shop-till receipts are sold at bus stations up to departure.
Marshrutky are minibuses that ply bus routes but stop anywhere on request. They're most common in big cities but also serve intercity routes. Fares are usually slightly higher; journey times shorter.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Trolleybus, tram, bus and metro run in Kyiv. A ticket for one ride by bus, tram or trolleybus costs 1.50uah to 2uah. There are no return, transfer, timed or day tickets available. Tickets must be punched on board (or ripped by the conductor).
Metro barriers take plastic tokens (zhetony), sold at counters inside stations.
TRAIN
For long journeys, overnight train is best. Ukrainian Railways(www.uz.gov.ua) features timetables and an online booking facility.
All seating classes have assigned places. Carriage (vahon) and bunk(mesto) numbers are printed on tickets.
MONEY
US dollars, the euro and Russian roubles are the easiest currencies to exchange. Damaged or marked notes may not be accepted. Credit cards are increasingly accepted everywhere, however, Ukraine remains primarily a cash economy.
Coins: one, five, 10, 25 and 50 kopecks and one hryvnya.
Notes: one, two, five, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnya.
Hryvnya are virtually impossible to buy pre-departure.
The currency saw huge devaluation in 2014.
ATMs are common.
ESSENTIAL FOOD & DRINK
‘Borshch and bread – that's our food.’ With this national saying, Ukrainians admit that theirs is a cuisine of comfort, full of hearty, mild dishes designed for fierce winters rather than one of gastronomic zing. Here are some of the Ukrainian staples you are certain to find on restaurant menus:
Borsch The national soup made with beetroot, pork fat and herbs.
Salo Basically raw pig fat, cut into slices and eaten with bread.
Varenyky Pasta pockets filled with everything from mashed potato to sour cherries.
Kasha Buckwheat swimming in milk and served for breakfast.
Vodka Also known as horilka, it accompanies every celebration and get-together – in copious amounts.
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