Austria's second-largest city is probably its most relaxed and, after Vienna, its liveliest for after-hours pursuits. It's an attractive place with bristling green parkland, red rooftops and a small, fast-flowing river gushing through its centre. Architecturally, it has Renaissance courtyards and provincial baroque palaces complemented by innovative modern designs.
The surrounding countryside, a mixture of vineyards, mountains, forested hills and thermal springs, is within easy striking distance.
Graz is a city easily enjoyed by simply wandering aimlessly. Admission to all of the Joanneum museums with a 24-hour ticket costs €11/4 for adults/children.
Neue Galerie GrazGALLERY
The Neue Galerie is the crowning glory of the three museums inside the Joanneumsviertel museum complex. The stunning collection on level 0 is the highlight. Though not enormous, it showcases richly textured and colourful works by painters such as Ernst Christian Moser, Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller and Johann Nepomuk Passini. Egon Schiele is also represented here.
Kunsthaus GrazGALLERY
Designed by British architects Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, this world-class contemporary-art space is a bold creation that looks something like a space-age sea slug. Exhibitions change every three to four months.
Schloss EggenbergPALACE
Graz' elegant palace was created for the Eggenberg dynasty in 1625 by Giovanni Pietro de Pomis (1565–1633) at the request of Johann Ulrich (1568–1634). Admission is on a highly worthwhile guided tour during which you learn about the idiosyncrasies of each room, the stories told by the frescoes and about the Eggenberg family itself.
MurinselBRIDGE
Murinsel is a constructed island-cum-bridge of metal and plastic in the middle of the Mur. This modern floating landmark contains a cafe, a kids' playground and a small stage.
SchlossbergVIEWPOINT
Rising to 473m, Schlossberg is the site of the original fortress where Graz was founded and is topped by the city's most visible icon – theUhrenturn. Its wooded slopes can be reached by a number of bucolic and strenuous paths, but also by lift or Schlossbergbahn funicular. Take tram 4 or 5 to Schlossplatz/Murinsel for the lift.
LandeszeughausMUSEUM
You won't need to have a passion for armour and weapons to enjoy what's on show at the Landeszeughaus. More than 30,000 pieces of glistening weaponry are housed here.
BurgCASTLE, PARK
Graz’ 15th-century Burg today houses government offices. At the far end of the courtyard, on the left under the arch, is an ingenious double staircase (1499) – the steps diverge and converge as they spiral. Adjoining it is the Stadtpark, the city’s largest green space.
AIR
Graz airport is located 10km south of the centre and is served by carriers including Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com), which connects the city with Berlin.
BICYCLE
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Single tickets (€2.10) for buses, trams and the Schlossbergbahn are valid for one hour, but you're usually better off buying a 24-hour pass (€4.80).
TRAIN
Trains to Vienna depart hourly (€37, 2½ hours), and six daily go to Salzburg (€48.20, four hours). International train connections from Graz include Ljubljana (€30 to €40, 3½ hours) and Budapest (€51 to €73, 5½ hours).
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